Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You need to remove the headlight and find the leak and seal it or else it's just going to reoccur.

As far as getting rid of what's in there, your best option is more than likely going to be to go for a night cruise so your headlights are on for enough time to evaporate the condensation that's in there.

  • 2 years later...

check on the top of the headlight, there should be a rubber seal near the indicator side, mine wasn't sealed properly as i can pry it out with my fingers and it exposes a hole to the insides, i believ this is where my headlights fog up/get cloudy from.

check on the top of the headlight, there should be a rubber seal near the indicator side, mine wasn't sealed properly as i can pry it out with my fingers and it exposes a hole to the insides, i believ this is where my headlights fog up/get cloudy from.

  • 2 weeks later...

My R34's headlights have been like this since I got it from import, but they seem to have a murky type of film on the inside of the glass. Does anybody know if the light housing and the glass separates? ...Is there a way of cleaning it out?

My R34's headlights have been like this since I got it from import, but they seem to have a murky type of film on the inside of the glass. Does anybody know if the light housing and the glass separates? ...Is there a way of cleaning it out?

It does, but you have to heat it up in an oven or with a heatgun to soften the sealer, then pry it apart. Depends how game you are.

  • 2 weeks later...

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

hmm sounds easy enough .. but knowing me, i'll probably heat the glass, pry it off, shatter everywhere and in my eyes lol

will defs be giving this a go though, cheers for the info Artz!

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

Thanx ARTZ, I'll swallow my fears of the unknown and have a go at it, might try to get some pix to post for everybody else

  • 3 weeks later...

I know a some people lights are real bad on the inside, but sometimes u might be suprised at how dirty/foggy the outsides are.

In my pic i left the bottom left corner dirty for you to see the difference, I clean mine once in a while with Autosol. comes up beautiful! Def worth a try before pulling things apart. It works good on foggy looking indicators too:)

IMG_2282.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...