Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You need to remove the headlight and find the leak and seal it or else it's just going to reoccur.

As far as getting rid of what's in there, your best option is more than likely going to be to go for a night cruise so your headlights are on for enough time to evaporate the condensation that's in there.

  • 2 years later...

check on the top of the headlight, there should be a rubber seal near the indicator side, mine wasn't sealed properly as i can pry it out with my fingers and it exposes a hole to the insides, i believ this is where my headlights fog up/get cloudy from.

check on the top of the headlight, there should be a rubber seal near the indicator side, mine wasn't sealed properly as i can pry it out with my fingers and it exposes a hole to the insides, i believ this is where my headlights fog up/get cloudy from.

  • 2 weeks later...

My R34's headlights have been like this since I got it from import, but they seem to have a murky type of film on the inside of the glass. Does anybody know if the light housing and the glass separates? ...Is there a way of cleaning it out?

My R34's headlights have been like this since I got it from import, but they seem to have a murky type of film on the inside of the glass. Does anybody know if the light housing and the glass separates? ...Is there a way of cleaning it out?

It does, but you have to heat it up in an oven or with a heatgun to soften the sealer, then pry it apart. Depends how game you are.

  • 2 weeks later...

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

hmm sounds easy enough .. but knowing me, i'll probably heat the glass, pry it off, shatter everywhere and in my eyes lol

will defs be giving this a go though, cheers for the info Artz!

i did mine, a few times actually..:D

it wouldnt fit in my oven and i wouldnt recomend it anyway

what i did was buy a 20$ heat gun form bunnings..the you just keep running it all around the seal for 10 minutes or so with out getting to close to melt the light of course..just keep it moving and get all the silicon very warm..

Then when its all warm, concentrate on one end, the inside end (where the grill is) is best, warm it real hot then just hold the light between your feet and pry that end apart .do not try to pry the whole lot at once just do the end

When you have opened one end work your way around heating a section and pulling it apart..should take 3 or 4 turns and the whole cover will be off.

it really isnt too hard, but it takes patience, dont try force it apart, if the silicon is hot enough it will pry apart without too much effort..once the seal is cracked its easy

Too put it back together just reheat the silicon and stick it back together you don't really need to put new silicon in..

you can also use the heatgun to dry the condensation, but dont get too close..i made that mistake once and your light goes from fine too f**ked in about 3 second..

..im glad I read this thread cause its done it again so maybe its that little rubber hose causing my problems.. :thumbsup:

Thanx ARTZ, I'll swallow my fears of the unknown and have a go at it, might try to get some pix to post for everybody else

  • 3 weeks later...

I know a some people lights are real bad on the inside, but sometimes u might be suprised at how dirty/foggy the outsides are.

In my pic i left the bottom left corner dirty for you to see the difference, I clean mine once in a while with Autosol. comes up beautiful! Def worth a try before pulling things apart. It works good on foggy looking indicators too:)

IMG_2282.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...