Gearbox Noise; not thrust bearing, the other one...

[cobo_11]

Hey all,

I have been doing a bit of reading on the SAU site but everyone else with similar problem to mine is expreiencing the opposite of my noise...does that make sense?

Anyway, there is a noise comming from my gearbox which sounds like bearing related, but apprently from what I understand it is not the thrust bearing that everyone else has problems with.

The noise is there when the car is in neutril (spelling) and not pressing the clutch. When I press the clutch in, the noise goes away.

The noise is there also when I am in gears 1, 2 and 3. but as soon as I press in the clutch to change gears, the noise goes away again.

I should add that the noise gets louder with increased revs in those gears mentioned. And it is a continual noise (ie; not what a warped disc would make).

(the noise is also SLOWLY starting to happen in 4th and 5th)

Can someone PLEASE let me know what is causing this and what I can do to have it rectified (ie; what needs replacing and costs if they can be provided)

Thanks to anyone who can help!

[cobo_11]

Something else to add...

When in gears 1, 2 and 3 when I take my foot off the accelerater, there is a different noise which is less audible which doesn't sound good either. sounds like the bearing which makes that noise (if it is a bearing) is dry or something...

Sorry if that's all a bit confusing, but it's hard to explain...

[wrxhoon]

it sounds like its the bearing on the input shaft in yr gearbox dude , when u put ur foot on the clutch it doesnt turn so the noise stops . if its only minor i wouldnt wory about it but if it gets worse u have to replace it .

[vspec2]

I got the same problem but you hear the whining noise more in 3rd,4th,5th. I'm pretty sure its the input shaft bearing as WRXHOON was saying. The cars still goes fine besides the noise. I wouldn't worry about it unless the gearbox falls out.. sorry I ment say unless the car starts to drive like crap.

cheers

[cobo_11]

thanks for the replies guys!

I don't suppose either of you would have a rough ball-park figure on the cost to replace the bearing in question?

Cheers.

[red17]

Probably easier to get the whole box rebuilt at the same time, to avoid problems down the track. Im sure a mechanic in here could give you a price. Either that or buy a new gearbox, theres probably plenty of RB20 ones around that are cheap.

Or alternatively bolt up the stronger R33 box.

But I wouldnt worry too much until you start having serious problems using the gears, popping out whilst driving, cant select gears etc..

Red17

[cobo_11]

thanks red17, I think I will probably wait until it becomes more evident that there is an actual problem.

Would an R33 GTS-4 gearbox be ok to bolt on to an R32 GTS-4, even though the R33 GTS-4 isn't turbocharged? (not that mine is putting out gearbox destroying power! :-) )

seeing as my car is a GTS-4, am I right in thinking that an R32 GTR gearbox will bolt straight on?

in the end I think I will just replace with a box from another R32 GTS-4, but was wondering the other alternatives I could use for the GTS-4...

thanks again guys!

[Cubes]

Its also got to do with the age of the car.

I've seen some R32 gearboxes hold in at 230-240rwkw. Generally I've heard of them breaking gears and some times doing a input shaft bearing.

I've had a imputshaft bearing that was just starting when I bought the car.

I changed oils which fixed it for 6 or so months. When the noise started to get loud again I changed oils and dropped in some Nulon G70. The noise went quiet again and around 1.5years later the noise has came back but is louder. Its stayed the same loudness for some time now. I can now hear the wirr with the clutch out idling and through all gears.

Its still a damn strong gearbox compared to a VS V8 5 Speed I owned which did a gearbox (bearings started grinding with gears poping out). That gearbox lasted 6 months.

If it were my GTS4 I would pop down to nissan and see what they want for bearings and syncro's for your g'box. Rebuild your g/box which isn't difficult if you open one up and have a look to see how it works & is put together.

Probably won't end up costing that much and you will be able to get a fresh g/box out of it which will last many thrashings, providing you replace every bearing and roller needle bearings if a line box has them.

[AutoTrust]

Cobo11, I have had personal experience with this same noise you describe in a different car, and it was the thrust bearing. When the cluch was out the thrust bearing was making slight contact with the pressure plate fingers resulting in a crappy sound. When changing down gears it sounded like the 3 stooges were in my gearbox woop wooop wooop. have seen a similar problem with other cars when the return spring on the cluch fork was damaged/streched or missing. And cable operated clutches the same. Chances are that the problem could be more complicated than this but you never know with cars. :whatsthat

[ScarifieR]

i know a local mechanic who has a r32 gts4 gearbox for sale which has had a full bearing kit put thru it as he gets many R32 halfcuts for the motors and redoes the bearings on the gearboxes to sell them

hes also doing my manual conversion which i pickup tomorrow

[wrxhoon]

cobo 11 , ur box will last for a long time unless the noise gets a lot worse .

if u lull the box down u should change all the bearings and inspect all gears and syncros at the same time . bearings are very cheap u buy them for a bearing shop , not nissan ( same bearings, nissan dont make bearings ) . syncros and gears are very expensive however u would know if they are worn or broken teeth ( in the case of gears ). bearings and front and rear seals would be less that $100 but u r looking at about 8-10 hours labour ( r+r box clean and pull the box appart ) so its not cheap and while u have the box out u probably want to replace the clutch as well .

[Cubes]

I guess the one advantage of buying all the parts from nissan (which they can get them) is you don't need to dismantle your gearbox first in order to get the numbers off the origional bearings. Syncro's arn't expensive however gears are. You won't have any broken gears so don't even worry about replacing them.

From memory a front seal is $21.

Find out how much it costs to get it rebuilt & then work out if its worth doing it your self with how much you save.

Some places charge way to much.

Its a lot like getting a RB crank crack tested.

Some places charge $300-$400 others charge a more reasonable $40.