Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

ive got a rb20det r32 with a s1 r33 turbo and have just put a HKS adjustable actuator on it. I thought id share my experiences and hopefully get my questions answered at the same time.

To set the scene the car has all the supporting mods as-well as a greddy profec B spec II boost controller.

With the controller off i sit at about 10psi with a trail off at high rpm. The turbo had the original actuator which was set at 7psi so i got about 3psi from the supporting mods.

Now when installing the HKS item i firstly just lined up the hole that connects to the turbo's wastegate flap and took for a quick spin.

TEST 1: RESULT = 5psi and very slow

Now at this point i was a bit surprised so i turned on the boost controller to see if the actuator was actually working or if id stuffed up.

TEST 2: RESULT = 6psi

so i was happy that it was working fine but just set too low. I pulled over and tightened up the screw about 1 cm. this wasnt going to be enough but i just wanted to see an increase and went for another spin.

TEST 3: RESULT = 6.7psi

so i repeated step 3 again and again until i was back up to about 10psi.

now that's all i have done so far and have noticed that the boost is getting to 10psi and that slowly creeping to 10.8 at high rpm, so should I loosen the screw a little?

Or should I use the boost controller? I'm aiming to run the turbo at 12.5 - 13psi

As i do some more testing I'll update the thread with my progress.

cheers

ASh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287768-installing-hks-adjustable-actuator/
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

ive got a rb20det r32 with a s1 r33 turbo and have just put a HKS adjustable actuator on it. I thought id share my experiences and hopefully get my questions answered at the same time.

To set the scene the car has all the supporting mods as-well as a greddy profec B spec II boost controller.

With the controller off i sit at about 10psi with a trail off at high rpm. The turbo had the original actuator which was set at 7psi so i got about 3psi from the supporting mods.

Now when installing the HKS item i firstly just lined up the hole that connects to the turbo's wastegate flap and took for a quick spin.

TEST 1: RESULT = 5psi and very slow

Now at this point i was a bit surprised so i turned on the boost controller to see if the actuator was actually working or if id stuffed up.

TEST 2: RESULT = 6psi

so i was happy that it was working fine but just set too low. I pulled over and tightened up the screw about 1 cm. this wasnt going to be enough but i just wanted to see an increase and went for another spin.

TEST 3: RESULT = 6.7psi

so i repeated step 3 again and again until i was back up to about 10psi.

now that's all i have done so far and have noticed that the boost is getting to 10psi and that slowly creeping to 10.8 at high rpm, so should I loosen the screw a little?

Or should I use the boost controller? I'm aiming to run the turbo at 12.5 - 13psi

As i do some more testing I'll update the thread with my progress.

cheers

ASh

lol u didnt need the actuator if u had a good boost controller heh but anyway turn the adjustment nut/wastegate arm connector so it stays closed for long thus giving u more boost . :bunny:

well i had the actuator sitting around and i really only want to use the controller for fine tuning. one other thing is i lost the circlip that goes over the actuator where can i get 1?

cheers

ash

I'm in the eastern suburbs...I'll come collect and drop off a sixer if the actuator is still good (think mine is rooted) and hasn't been played with. What's your brew?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...