Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

p.s I dont like getting into the kick pannel were the ecu is as I belive the more one root's arround with it the more likely some of those fine wires will break in the socket.

The less you remove the ecu the better.

Note it would be quite costly to replace the scoket that plugs to the ecu. It could also cause faults that are hard to trace.

Thats why I think its better to reset the ecu the paper clip way.

my 2 cents

DAMQIK

just tried the paper clip method. it worked!! realised i was putting it in the wrong holes wen DAMQIK said that the points had wires going into them. i was putting the clip into 2 empty ones hehe.

the engine check lite flashed 5 times slow, and then 5 times quick? and then just kept repeating itself after that. anyone know what that means?

  • 2 years later...

I know this is digging up an old thread, but I thought the paper clip trick only reset the diagnostics (this needs to be done after replacing a faulty componant) mode not the actual ECU (learning). Droppng power to it and draining off any power by pressing the brake or leaving over night is the only way I know..

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys, the diagnostic tool you need isnt expensive! and you can share it with any mates that have a pre 97 Nissan with the grey consult diagnostic port. If you have a laptop ,USB ECU Interface cable and software can cost as little as $155.

If you are interested, check out my ad in the 'for sale from our sponsors' .

Im quite happy for you to borrow mine too if you are Sydney based.

Cheers,

Caz... :D

I really don't think it would have done too much.....the proper diagnostic tool is needed and after the reset there are certain driving processes it needs to help the computer 'learn'.

CODE 13 is Engine coolant temp sensor, very common fault. Remove and clean the connector with a tiny file and contact cleaner, retension the insides so they connect well, clear the fault from your ecu , replug and try again!

ECU SELF-DIAGNOSTIC ERRORCODES

Code 11* :

Camshaft Angle Sensor circuit (CAS)

Either 1° or 120° signal is not entered for the first few seconds of engine cranking,

Either 1° or 120° signal is not input often enough while the engine speed is higher then the specified RPM.

Check harness and connector (if harness and connector are OK, replace CAS)

Code 12 :

Air Flow Meter circuit (AFM)

The AFM sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector (if harness and connector are OK, replace AFM)

Code 13 :

Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor

The Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormal voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector of Engine Coolant Temperature sensor

Code 14 :

Speed Sensor circuit

The Speed Sensor circuit is open or shorted.

Check harness and connector speed sensor switch (reed switch)

Code 21*

Ignition signal circuit

The ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running.

Check harness and connector of the Power Transistor Unit

Code 26

Boost Pressure sensor (Turbo models)

The boost pressure sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check for boost pressure leaks, check boost pressure sensor

Code 31

Control Unit

ECU calculation function is failing Replace ECU

Code 32

EGR function

EGR valve does not operate (valve spring does not lift)

Check EGR valve and EGR-solenoid

Code 33

O2 Sensor (left side)

The O2 Sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, O2 sensor, Fuel pressure, Injectors, Intake air leaks

Code 34

Detonation Sensor circuit

The detonation sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check Harness and connector, detonation sensor

Code 35

EGR Temp. Sensor

The EGR Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check EGR temp. sensor

Code 42

Fuel Temp Sensor circuit

The Fuel Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check Fuel temp. sensor

Code 43

Throttle Position Sensor circuit

The Throttle Position Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, check throttle position sensor

Code 45

Injector leak

Fuel leaks from the injectors Injectors

Code 51

Injector circuit

The injector circuit is open

Check harness and connector, check injectors

Code 53

O2 Sensor (right side)

The O2 Sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered).

Check harness and connector, O2 sensor, fuel pressure, injectors, intake air leaks

Code 54

Signal circuit from the automatic transmission (A/T) (A/T models only)

The A/T communication line is open or shorted

Check harness and connector

Hope this helps,

Cheers, Caz... :D

can someone please post what all the codes are? i cant find it, and me mates has just started flashing code 13.

  • 7 months later...

absurdely old topic and all but, the above list of problems do you need the ecu diagnostic tester to assess? or is there like a LCD screen in the ecu that gives u codes or a LED

thx itd save me asking alot of questions if i could get these codes goin. That and i dont like pulling kick panels apart and going near old wiring if i dont have to

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...

i know this may seems as a bit of a noob qs but is there any harzards involved with resetting the ecu???

i recently had a faulty afm which i fixed by resoldering the three pins inside on the circuit board, i was getting stalling and hesistation problems all the time and the car chewwed fuel like no tommorow, but the car still seems to run a little rough around the 3 - 3500 rpm mark hesistating and there is a significant power drop, i was wondering whether resetting the ecu wud help it to re learn the correct air/fuel ratios now that the afm is fixed if this has anything to do with the problem???

please feel free to correct me if i am wrong as im new to this game

Cheers Nick :O

Resetting the ECU lets the computer retune to suit the fuel mixtures your running (depends on fuel & quality/location etc.). Your ECU will do this/reset itself automatically after 50 starts or so anyway...

Occasional backfire could be from a number of things, TPS, atmo BOVS, coolers etc. but firstly look at the timing/tune. Crap fuel shouldnt cause a backfire just a more spontaneous combustion rather than top/down??

The only benefit you'll get from resetting the ecu (apart from resetting other computers) is that the fuel mixtures are more aggressively tuned (i.e. first tune to suit first run), and that benefit will only be realised if you keep using the same blend of fuel i.e. BP Ultimate, Shell Optimax etc. all the time. Ive been told that this occurs dynamically (real time) aswell but it is far less aggressive i.e. tune happens over weeks rather than minutes

Just keep using the same fuel and your ecu will reset itself automatically at some stage. Not sure about the diagram above but the R32 and 33 pinouts are different. Just unplug battery +ve and hit the brake pedal to remove residual - this will also work with most other cars.

An automatic shop tried to charge me 150$ to reset the Auto ECU in a magna doing the same thing, Nissan charge $70 for an ECU reset also, 120$ for a reset & a consult - ridiculous!!

  • 2 years later...

Hey

sorry to start this topic again. I'm about to do a 100,000km service and I would like to reset mystock ecu but I'm not sure what to do as I have a rb20det? Disconecting the battery really work? Can sum1 please explain how reset the ecu on r32?

Cheers

thanks for bumping a 3+ year old thread

to do stock ecu reset undo the battery terminal and press the brake pedal a few times

it will clear out all the power in the system and reset the stock ecu

it will also reset the headunit and other non-nvram based electronics

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...