Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Nissan TB48, forged internals only, Vipec v88 ecu.

COMPLETLY stock head which as pretty much the same VCT as an RB25DET! stock cams springs everything. 2 bar boost. its got a borg warner turbo of some sort.

I managed a max 794rwhp the power figure shown was toned a little for street use.

Crazy customer... I call him "Mr crazy" in arabic :)

post-1240-0-43149600-1321488437_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-20547400-1321488572_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-32833600-1321488585_thumb.jpg

Soooo... Alot has been happening the last week... I tuned the 2012 V8 VK56DET Nissan Patrol with the Vipec V88, Customer is VERY happy with it considering its only on 5psi boost...

Anyway he calls me the next morning and said I have to go with him because he is building a drift car, and he wants one a RB done by me...

So we go for a drive to the jap part of the UAE, 1.2 hours drive and then he hands over a wad of cash for this baby...

post-1240-0-99453900-1322180683_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-12798200-1322180715_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-65277000-1322180741_thumb.jpg

Anyway little did I know that the car he was building he already purchased, a 2004 Nissan 350z. He handed me the car and I drove it around for a few days... Now we removed the engine from the half cut and the 350z, but found the 26 had alot of end float in it and the crank is shagged... ahhh well.. no matter we will rebuild it!

So after changing the cams in my old RB30DET i started to suffer some misfiring, Paul from Red R Racing mentioned that I am starving the top end of oil with my sydney kid restrictor configuration and i should open one back up again, so I decided to do just that and also get some valve springs from performance springs in QLD.

got the springs and decided to take the engine out of the car, lucky I did because the week before I kinda tried a 3rd gear anti lag launch and kinda fried the clutch up pretty bad and as suspected it was stuffed. My Jim Berry full monte race clutch done me very very well! 4 years of abuse and in the last 3 months of its life it ran a 10.8 second quarter!

post-1240-0-97688400-1322182125_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-73884700-1322182139_thumb.jpg

Anyway the clutch was shagged, quick call to Jim Berry and he let me in on some of his secrets of the clutch that was built for me, and how I can get the flywheel back to new again by making a new insert for it! so i got the parts and sent it off to the local machine shop, and what do you know! they managed to pull it off! I re-machined the pressure plate which was still clamping good and Jim made me a new clutch plate after i read the numbers off the old one and got it to me here in the UAE in less then 5 days including shipping time! What a champion!!!! Thanks Jim !!!

I removed the head from the old RB30DET I screwed together back in 2007, and what was inside came as quite a shock!

160,000+ km , 4 years, 3 countries, 2 cars, 3 turbo's... 10.8 second quarter @ 135mph (done months before i opened it) All kinds of different fuels, aussie 95 98, e85, Georgian pump gas 91 and 98 octane with god knows how much vodka spirits mixed in to get the octane up, and even Q16 VP racing fuel and UAE fuel which is really good....

The funny thing is this old RB30DET traveled more on the road then it did by ship!

Specs of the engine is

ACL Forged Pistons

Precision Motorsports Rods

ACL Race Bearings

Crank Collar and N1 oil pump.

Not even 1 sign of detonation or knock marks or anything, the pistons were in perfect condition with just alot of carbon build up, the head was perfect also, no marks scratches or anything I was in pure disbelief that after all this time the engine was still going strong and really if i did not change the cams it would never have needed to be opened anyway!

The head gasket was in such good condition that I RE-USED IT!!

You can tell alot about a tune on a engine that has blown up after opening it and looking inside,

so you can tell alot about a tuner by opening his own daily / drift / drag / world traveled RB30DET and take a look inside! =)

Remember this car was fully street legal / emissions tested and engineered before it left the country!

post-1240-0-18088400-1322183218_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-49771100-1322183278_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-54277300-1322183299_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-41126800-1322183316_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-89805600-1322183546_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-13284000-1322183561_thumb.jpg

So we started work on the Suspension parts, Parts ordered.

post-1240-0-64965500-1322183726_thumb.jpg

Installation time!

post-1240-0-08403300-1322183581_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-52435400-1322183597_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-23079900-1322183615_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-15530500-1322183642_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-01126400-1322183707_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-01126400-1322183707_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-29719400-1322183718_thumb.jpg

I got alot of work on setting up the suspension, I have added sooo many adjustments down there and have no frigging idea what to do with them and nobody here knows either, I guess thats one way that I learn best... get in there and just do it yourself. always interested in you guys suggestions and opinions on whats the best drift / track / street setup if you would like to share... *hint hint*

Will post up some more stuff soon, Been sooo busy these days its just been crazy!

Some good news though, I am going to come home for a visit holiday from around mid december to mid january, and could be available for some tuning to the right guys, drop me a PM if you are interested.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...