Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yo guys and girls.

1990 R32 GTST 4 door

manual

rb20DET

new metal head gasket

New cooling system

BOV

Highflowed VG30 turbo

FMIC

3" zorst

196rwkw@ 13 psi

Walbro pump

DR drift Bleed valve

5 puck clutch

Locked 4.33 diff

Adjustbale castor rods

new camber bushes

Cusco Zero 1 R coilovers

Dildo knob

Blitz boost guage

18x9 +23 Weds speedstar Viennas on front

18x 9.5 +15 Origin DS02's

Pioneer stereo with sub and splits ect ( ipod ready)

body is pretty good overall , rear guards have been rolled to fit rims,

Tough car, plenty of street cred, track ready ( never been to track)

$10.5. quick sale

Located in SA, has vic rego

Swaps for cheaper car concidered.

post-60639-1253152950_thumb.jpg

post-60639-1253152959_thumb.jpg

post-60639-1253152966_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288359-1989-r32-gtst-4-door/
Share on other sites

r33 1993

r33 gtr rims

stock motor

z32 afm

rb20 remaped computer

good interier

paint is a bit shit

brand new exedy 5 puk clutch

makin ova 200 at the wheels

front mount intercooler

coil ovas all round

wulbro fuel pump

um yer cant think or any think els atm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...