Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Dunno if this is the right section but here goes.

About 2000ks ago I did an engine bay paint and pretty up when I upgraded my Turbo, Injectors, clutch etc on my 33 gtst. Everything has been fine up until the last week or so (Or I should say I only noticed it a week or so ago) when I noticed oil droplets on the garage floor. Not heaps of oil but oil drops none the less.

Last night I went for an approx 70k drive so I thought I"d put some paper down and see if I could find the source of the leak when I got home.

I pulled into the garage and turned the car off and looked under it to find a droplet about the size of a twenty cent coin on the paper under the part where the gearbox attaches to the engine (The bellhousing?)

Now if had a look and a feel around the engine (albeit at night) and I cant seem to find the source of the leak. Its not the sump plug as I first thought it may have been when I first noticed spots and I am thinking that maybe when I painted the cam covers and put them back on it hasnt sealed properly and oil is somehow running down the back of the engine and to this spot. Is this possible?

Ive had 4 dyno runs in the last few months including a full day at the mechanics checking over all my work to make sure I put everything together ok and nothing was said so I figure this is a new leak.

Any ideas?

If its something major like a big end Id hear it wouldnt I?

This is a meticulously maintained car so it has got me baffled.

Ive added a pic to show where the oil drips from

100_8983.jpg

and others to show how clean I keep the bay (So i would notice a leak)

100_8734.jpg

100_8733.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288577-rb25-oil-leak/
Share on other sites

Ha ha...

It is a pain, its the seal where the gearbox shaft goes into the engine, not an expensive part , the one for my ute was 15$ from memory. but a pain to get at..

you'll now if ya clutch starts slipping cause its covered in oil...lol

Edited by doozooby
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288577-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-4834453
Share on other sites

^^^ Good call there. And.........old Holden rear mains practically leak from birth but don't seem to do much by way of degrading the clutch performance. My old ute don't seem to care one way or the other at least. See how it goes, if it is rear main & has only just started it probably isn't a major issue. Buy drip tray from supercrap for garage floor.

Cheers GW

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288577-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-4834683
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input guys.

Ill have a really good look over it this arvo to make sure it isnt leaking from the cam cover area.

By the sounds of it tho its the rear main.....shouldve just changed it when i did the clutch. Lesson learned

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288577-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-4834710
Share on other sites

mine's sweating oil to the general sump area all around ... mechanic looked at it and it looks like the rocker cover gaskets / halfmoon seals need replacing and it seems pretty common on skylines. Check the rear of the rocker cover near the firewall ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288577-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-4834754
Share on other sites

mine used to leak from the same spot too at the gearbox. i thought it was the rocker gasket so i got that cleaned and replaced. prob came back later and got it re-cleaned and tightened by another workshop and it's still back. I then had the car up on a hoist and the mech pointed out it could possibly be coming from the oil line from under the turbo to the block so when you drive turbulence disperses the oil around the back of the block making it look like its leaking from the rocker gasket. I have yet to get it fixed but it does make alot of sense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288577-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-4835106
Share on other sites

Did you look at the cam covers at the rear? the half moon rubber seals at the back ALWAYS leak, check for oil down your block around the back and sides.

Well just had a good look over and under the car in the light and I "THINK" GT-RZ win the prize for this one. Just under the half moon on the passengers side is covered in fresh oil, cant see it but when I wiped my hand over it could feel it.

I went around and re-tightened all the cam cover screws and I was suprised that they were a little loose (Could tighten about a 1/4 turn) Maybe cause I put new gaskets and Half moons in when I did the mini rebuild they have now "seated" a bit???

are you sure its definetly motor oil??

Yeh man definately motor oil

Just to be cautious I have cleaned all the bell housing and as much of the block as I can reach and I will take it for a spin tonight and have another look after she gets really warm for any other leaks, but Im hopeing Ive found it so I dont have to take the Gearbox out again. That was a bitch to do without the "proper" tools.

Ill keep you guys posted on the results

Thanks for the help peeps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288577-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-4835188
Share on other sites

mine's sweating oil to the general sump area all around ... mechanic looked at it and it looks like the rocker cover gaskets / halfmoon seals need replacing and it seems pretty common on skylines. Check the rear of the rocker cover near the firewall ..

Yep, mine leaks here too :)

are you sure its definetly motor oil??

mine drips oil from the same spot but its not motor oil (bit more redish)

think mine is coming from one of the power steering lines.

And here :bunny:

Edited by doozooby
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288577-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-4835206
Share on other sites

Did you look at the cam covers at the rear? the half moon rubber seals at the back ALWAYS leak, check for oil down your block around the back and sides.

And here :)

mine used to leak from the same spot too at the gearbox. i thought it was the rocker gasket so i got that cleaned and replaced. prob came back later and got it re-cleaned and tightened by another workshop and it's still back. I then had the car up on a hoist and the mech pointed out it could possibly be coming from the oil line from under the turbo to the block so when you drive turbulence disperses the oil around the back of the block making it look like its leaking from the rocker gasket. I have yet to get it fixed but it does make alot of sense.

Not sure about here :bunny:

I just keep coming back here to see what a clean engine bay looks like.....

Edited by doozooby
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288577-rb25-oil-leak/#findComment-4835212
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...