Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Very Happy today.

Finally got to drive my Line today. Went to the compliance place to have a look and take some digi pics. The guy says, here's the keys, take it for a burn - Just don't let cops see you (no rego / plates) .

Started her up - sounds sweet . Cat back 3" (Maybe 3.5") system - very straight too. Looks like it has 2 resonators and no muffler - Also Apexi type pod filter.

1st gear - whooosh second gear (standard BOV vents back thru the pod) - I plant it in 2nd - boost cuts in......, then rear wheels lose traction (is this normal) ??? Was on a normal road.

Decide to take her back to the shop (only got to third gear)

Took a look around - Luv the wheels 17" 6 spoke - R brand (R in Red) too dark to see it properly. Suspension very low & hard - Front spoiler has been scraped a little.

Rear bumper has mark on it - looks a like rope mark where they tied it down on the ship.

The car is filthy - needs a good detail.

Apexi S-AFC included - I think it is an old one - It's got 5 (or so knobs on the front - Dunno if this is any good.

Alll in all very happy.... And I get to tak it home in a week after engineering - Can't drive it tho, gotta wait for comp plates to come in. But while I'm waiting, the stereo will go in, and it will be getting a mega detail........

Cheers all - It's been a long wait !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2894-i-got-to-drive-my-line-today/
Share on other sites

brendan - yeah with a good clutch you can snap thirds quite easily... hitting third hard in my car will send the back across the next lane. :D

the S-AFC, yeah thats the older model - still a VERY good unit, take it to mark at hills (see my sig) for tuning, he'll look after you.

Christian.

Oh and congrats.

Very Nice... I really wanted a silver one... maybe next time.

I know what you'll be going through now. The last week, week and a half was the worst for me. It had been SOOOOO long and there was SOOOO little time left... it seemed to take as long as the 2 months before hand!

Look forward to seeing it in the metal!!!

Black33,

It depends on plenty of things.

I have 162rwkw and can spin second sometimes third in the dry but my tyres are now pretty shot... when they were new 255/40 17's I had to push pretty hard to spin first (ie, give it 5 grand and sidestep the clutch!)

Do you only have zorst? do you also have wider wheels on the back? more rubber on the road means harder to spin.

  • 2 weeks later...
Originally posted by Black33

prank - what sort of mods have you got???? I can't even get wheelspin in 2nd when driving it hard (I only have a cat back exhaust) - is this normal?

define "hard"?? :lol:

Seconds should be easy...unless you have some very good quality rubber on the back

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...