Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

Picked up a S/H r33 standard turbo the other day. Just wondering if anyone knows any info about what size these can be ported to, what size wheel is need after and oil line sizes.

Also anyone have any local guys who might be able to do the job.

Any info on this would be good

Cheers

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289459-high-flowed-turbo/
Share on other sites

Also does anyone know anything about the different types of housings you can match to these. Ive heard/read you can have a different exhaust housing or something just wanted to clear that up

so can mtq. but hypergear is miles cheaper.

yeah Hypergear charge $880 for the hiflow and a new oil line i think, but there in Melbourne. $25 delivery each way i think. Adelaide Turbo Service quoted me $2300 from memory for a hiflow for the r33 turbo. Hypergear ones are good for upto 280kw i think. there is a thread about it in the forced induction section i think that tells you all about the sizes and what they can do to it.

yeah Hypergear charge $880 for the hiflow and a new oil line i think, but there in Melbourne. $25 delivery each way i think. Adelaide Turbo Service quoted me $2300 from memory for a hiflow for the r33 turbo. Hypergear ones are good for upto 280kw i think. there is a thread about it in the forced induction section i think that tells you all about the sizes and what they can do to it.

yeah, my highflow ending up being just over $900 when all was said and done, still miles cheaper than ats and mtq quoted. going strong so far. havent had it tuned yet, but should be good for and easy 200-220rwkw on the sr. (gt2860 .64 rear)

yeh i got a quote from ats for new seals and bearings and they wanted $1200.. i was like well my business will be going somewhere else haha..

hypergear FTW but they only do bush bearing!

yeah, their $800 highflows are only bush bearings, looking at $1200 or something for a ballbearing chra.

should probably mention, hypergear standard rebuilds are $400, ats and mtq wanted about $800, and they wanted close to $1200 for a highflow with the bush bearing core.

Edited by scandyflick

the $2300 ATS Adelaide Turbo Services highflow is a garrett bbiw GT3076R chra core, 60-trim front stock ported cover, rear AVO .73 housing

you get:

braided water lines, oil return pipe

braided oil lines, everything bolts up as per stock

stock Nissan V45 front compressor turbo cover, ported to 60-Trim, extended snout for stock intake

rear AVO Skyline exhaust housing, .73 spec

Garrett ball bearing internal wastegate GT3076R chra turbo core

500hp, true blue garret 700177-5015

I state it is worth every penny

current tune puts out 240kw at 1bar and running 1.25bar sees over 250kw

next tune in 2 weeks time for upgraded ecu & injectors, expecting near enough to 270rwkw from the auto rb25

:D

the $2300 ATS Adelaide Turbo Services highflow is a garrett bbiw GT3076R chra core, 60-trim front stock ported cover, rear AVO .73 housing

you get:

braided water lines, oil return pipe

braided oil lines, everything bolts up as per stock

stock Nissan V45 front compressor turbo cover, ported to 60-Trim, extended snout for stock intake

rear AVO Skyline exhaust housing, .73 spec

Garrett ball bearing internal wastegate GT3076R chra turbo core

500hp, true blue garret 700177-5015

I state it is worth every penny

current tune puts out 240kw at 1bar and running 1.25bar sees over 250kw

next tune in 2 weeks time for upgraded ecu & injectors, expecting near enough to 270rwkw from the auto rb25

:laugh:

with a .73 exhaust housing it will NOT make 500hp

with a .73 exhaust housing it will NOT make 500hp

the CHRA is suited for 500hp, the comp/exh housings would be ~450hp

the turbo is rated to 290rwkw max 22psi.....

for me, meh its an auto so frankly Id be impressed with 265rwkw @ 18psi.

thatd be a complete road tune result, awd auto, couldnt go wrong....... bar the auto slipping but currently she's all good

Hey guys

got that turbo 2day and was looking at it.

Looking at it how can i tell if the following have been done?

High flowed? can i tell by measuring the intake diameter?

Steel wheels, well i can def tell the comp wheel is steel but dunno about the exhaust

He said the core has been done also but id have to rip it aprt to find out if its ball bearing or not i guess

anything else i should look for before i do anything?

Cheers

guy didnt have reciepts

the photo's he had showed that the comp wheel was slightly bent

he said it was modified by mtq and atp in melb ---- has the mtq serial on it

he said mtq and atp did a stage 1 high flow which ment

new core(i assumed ball bearing)

steel wheels (he said rear was standard from memory but looks otherwise)

i just read on another page that there are 3 ways to tell if it has steel wheels

if the bolt over the wheel on exhaust is a dent pattern then its a ceramic

if its triangle its a steel wheel

if its a square its a steel wheel

as mine is triangle im assuming its steel (cant do the magnet trick as they arnt completly steel)

do you reckon with the mtq serial i could ring up mtq and they have a record of it.

the only other thing im going on it the trim i believe they call it(compressor side)

is 60mm i think (cant read my measuring tape properly but) and im pretty sure standard is 55-56mm

well anything you guys can tell me would be much appreciated. Ill try get soem photo's up soon

Edited by r33_crusier

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...