Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got picked up last night for blue lights on my number plate but thats not the problem.

I got told i can't have 19" rims or higher. I said "what?" The cop says no car is now aloud to have anything larger then 18's since 4 weeks ago.

And he told me i can have neons on under my car at all times when driving as long as you can't see the GLOBE. Crazy!

Any one know more?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289551-19s-and-up-now-illegel-in-wa/
Share on other sites

i call bullshit

my 300c srt 8 comes with stock 20 inch rims...

like to this the asshole cop u had give me a sticker for that... id tell him where to shove it.

Having said that, the legality of rims is based on what it came with from factory... u can only go up so many inches and so much more wider then stock...

so 19's can be illegal on some cars, while not on others. =)

Edited by br3ndan

yeah, if your number plate don't have those blue neons on them, your life would have been easier cos you won't be pulled over in the first place...

now the copper decided to make your life more miserable, tough luck for you....

the only colours allowed by ADR and local state laws are amber, or white (for number plate, and reverse). brake light should be red, and turn indicator amber/orange... headlights must be amber or white...

imagine the confusion if someone have their brake light green... wouldnt the car behind the slowing down car add more gas and ended up rear ending the car with green brake lights?

does the tyre placard fitted with compliance listed 19"

I checked mine and the tyre placard fitted includes 19"

that's because 19" is available on V35 series 2, and basically the chassis of series 1 and series 2 are the same, so the 19" is permissible on any V35.

providing the width is not of crazy sizes... but looking at the link posted by andy, looks like you gotta stick with 19x8", keeping the width always 8"

He said anyone with higher would get a warning then have a week or something to change them. He also said it's not illegel to sell them so dealers and tyrer shops can sell them.

I guess it's only a matter of time before the word gets around and people start getting pulled over more.

He did quote the law to me.

You've been duped by a cop who "thinks" he can pull one over you. Ahh country cops, so "up with the times".

We are all governed by a national ruling NCOP14 http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/veh...ng_3Feb2006.pdf

In summary we can not increase tyre width by more than 30% over stock (OEM) or placard.

So Front can go from 225 out to max 292 (rounded to nearest avail size 285)

Rear can go from 245 out to 318 ( or 315 next avail size).

You can have any size Ø rim as long as you maintain aspect ratio and the overall diameter of the tyre is not more than 15mm larger than stock.

Also the tyres must be load rated to suit.

I suggest you print it out, highlight the parts pertinent and keep it with you and if he hassles you again, show him the error of his ways, then bend him over and shove it up his a**.

Hallelujah brudda.................

Edited by mosoto
They are illegal from a taste perspective anyway. lol

Says the guy who apparently has an R33. :D

19"s may look like shyte on an "R" designated Skyline, but on a V they are proportional and actually look good.

I think he was joking about the taste thing!!

As for the Cop... what a moron and if you got fined tell him you will see him in court.

Must be a bit green if he is telling you that and you should not always believe what you are told, especially by Police.

Also, never ever agree with them at all, never admit blame, just in case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...