Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just had an r33 gtr engine installed on my 32, everything is good except for my water temp sensor (the one on the front of the engine) might not be working. The wiring had continuity because when i touched the end on the valve my guage went to full, so obviously my guage is working also. These tiny little simple screw like things cost over $100! Thats how much I paid for my clutch master cylinder and booster...anyway, how could such a simple component break? Can I spray it with a magic solvent like WD40 and all will be good?

Jez

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/
Share on other sites

I have a spare one ..changed mine to check if the old one's working and it was. You can have it for $50 if you want. it's from an R34 GTT so just confirm if it's the same (should be) and pm me if interested.

I am going to look up if its the same. If it is I am interested. Cheers!

Edited by Jez13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4852081
Share on other sites

i'd take a stab and say the above is correct, you probly just need to get one off ur original motor, or the same part from another motor, or a new one to suit your original motor.

Gauges and senders have to match.

for eg. In the daily driver sss, put a new motor in it, not knowing that whatever jdm awesome car the engine came out of, had a dif gauge temp sender, now my gauage reads oddly, but due to the stupid position of the sensor, its not being swapped over :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4852208
Share on other sites

i'd take a stab and say the above is correct, you probly just need to get one off ur original motor, or the same part from another motor, or a new one to suit your original motor.

Gauges and senders have to match.

for eg. In the daily driver sss, put a new motor in it, not knowing that whatever jdm awesome car the engine came out of, had a dif gauge temp sender, now my gauage reads oddly, but due to the stupid position of the sensor, its not being swapped over :D

Oh yeah...bugger if it doesn't work. I may have to install a custom one because I doubt that the r32 sensor will work or fit. As avril says, 'why does it have to be so complicated'. Just anpther gauge i have to crowd into my cockpit. Unless the r32 sender does actually fit. I dont have my old motor so I will have to borrow one from somewhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4852252
Share on other sites

RB20 and RB26 ECU water temp sensors are the same but RB25 is different, not sure if Neos are different again.

When I first built my 30 I snapped the RB20 sensor and only had 25 one lying around, ran in cold start all the time until I put an RB26 sensor in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4854453
Share on other sites

RB20 and RB26 ECU water temp sensors are the same but RB25 is different, not sure if Neos are different again.

When I first built my 30 I snapped the RB20 sensor and only had 25 one lying around, ran in cold start all the time until I put an RB26 sensor in.

So rb20 and 26 are the same but 25 is different? I have a 26 installed from an r33 gtr in my 32 gtr so it should work right? If an rb26 sensor from a 32 and a 33 are the same....unless I have a twin turbo 4wd rb25 with an rb26 cover...oh shit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4855758
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just to wrap my old topic up because I finally found an answer. Also so if anyone were to sticky this it wont be a waste of time reading it becuase it has a conclusion now.

If you have an R33 gtr engine in an R32 you need to use the R32 GTR water temp sensor (installed at front of engine head) for your gauge to work.

Thanks

Jez

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4913161
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...