Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just had an r33 gtr engine installed on my 32, everything is good except for my water temp sensor (the one on the front of the engine) might not be working. The wiring had continuity because when i touched the end on the valve my guage went to full, so obviously my guage is working also. These tiny little simple screw like things cost over $100! Thats how much I paid for my clutch master cylinder and booster...anyway, how could such a simple component break? Can I spray it with a magic solvent like WD40 and all will be good?

Jez

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/
Share on other sites

I have a spare one ..changed mine to check if the old one's working and it was. You can have it for $50 if you want. it's from an R34 GTT so just confirm if it's the same (should be) and pm me if interested.

I am going to look up if its the same. If it is I am interested. Cheers!

Edited by Jez13
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4852081
Share on other sites

i'd take a stab and say the above is correct, you probly just need to get one off ur original motor, or the same part from another motor, or a new one to suit your original motor.

Gauges and senders have to match.

for eg. In the daily driver sss, put a new motor in it, not knowing that whatever jdm awesome car the engine came out of, had a dif gauge temp sender, now my gauage reads oddly, but due to the stupid position of the sensor, its not being swapped over :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4852208
Share on other sites

i'd take a stab and say the above is correct, you probly just need to get one off ur original motor, or the same part from another motor, or a new one to suit your original motor.

Gauges and senders have to match.

for eg. In the daily driver sss, put a new motor in it, not knowing that whatever jdm awesome car the engine came out of, had a dif gauge temp sender, now my gauage reads oddly, but due to the stupid position of the sensor, its not being swapped over :D

Oh yeah...bugger if it doesn't work. I may have to install a custom one because I doubt that the r32 sensor will work or fit. As avril says, 'why does it have to be so complicated'. Just anpther gauge i have to crowd into my cockpit. Unless the r32 sender does actually fit. I dont have my old motor so I will have to borrow one from somewhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4852252
Share on other sites

RB20 and RB26 ECU water temp sensors are the same but RB25 is different, not sure if Neos are different again.

When I first built my 30 I snapped the RB20 sensor and only had 25 one lying around, ran in cold start all the time until I put an RB26 sensor in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4854453
Share on other sites

RB20 and RB26 ECU water temp sensors are the same but RB25 is different, not sure if Neos are different again.

When I first built my 30 I snapped the RB20 sensor and only had 25 one lying around, ran in cold start all the time until I put an RB26 sensor in.

So rb20 and 26 are the same but 25 is different? I have a 26 installed from an r33 gtr in my 32 gtr so it should work right? If an rb26 sensor from a 32 and a 33 are the same....unless I have a twin turbo 4wd rb25 with an rb26 cover...oh shit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4855758
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just to wrap my old topic up because I finally found an answer. Also so if anyone were to sticky this it wont be a waste of time reading it becuase it has a conclusion now.

If you have an R33 gtr engine in an R32 you need to use the R32 GTR water temp sensor (installed at front of engine head) for your gauge to work.

Thanks

Jez

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289762-temp-sensor/#findComment-4913161
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
×
×
  • Create New...