Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people

Did a search but didn't find what I was exactly looking for.

I've hit 100,00km on my n/a r34 25gt so its time for a major service. Since I haven't had any experience myself I wanted to get it done by a pro. I was given a quote of $1100 by a jap import mechanic down my way, is this a normal price? I didn't get full details but that includes new spark plugs, timing belt, and im assuming bearings and seals. As well as the standard service like dropping oil, coolant etc.

What should I be paying for a major service including parts?

Also found this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...or+service+cost so I was thinking of buying the parts myself to save money and just get the mechanic to do the install.

Cheers

Dom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289980-rb25de-100000km-major-service-cost/
Share on other sites

Assuming they provide quality items (genuine or reputable aftermarket brand) it sounds fair.

Ensure they use quality fluids/oils as well, because there is no point of having good parts without good fluids/oils to protect them.

Also keep around $700 aside because sooner or later your ignition coils will start to give trouble (most R34s face this issue around 100,000km).

If you don't have experience I'd say it is good insurance - especially if you start factoring in the hassle of breakdowns, towing, cost of fixing engine damage and the days you will not have a car it will easily cost much more than $1100.

thanks for the replies

Yeah he definitely uses top quality oils and fluids, one of those mechanics who cringes at the thought of people putting cheap shit into their imports.

I'll call up to see if it includes a water pump, otherwise might see if i can supply parts instead. Considering i'm putting in about $550 worth of parts, he'd be charging $550 for labour + the normal service items like fluids...so maybe it isn't so unreasonable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...