Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Front Shaft Removal

manage13
 Share

Recommended Posts

manage13 Proficient

manage13

Posted
Posted

Hi all, its me again with yet another plea for help. I'm hoping someone in the SAU community can help me out.

I have dropped my motor (from k frame) just to be able to remove/work on engine with ease. I am trying to separate the engine from K frame at the moment but I am having issues removing the front LHS shaft. Just wondering is there a trick to removing it?

Below are pictures of the shaft in question.

2725004050064171239GzawSb_th.jpg2922881790064171239vsbBER_th.jpg2549783640064171239eQzwKZ_th.jpg

Any advice/ help is much appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290047-gtr-front-shaft-removal/
Share on other sites
doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted

is that your driveshaft (ie have you got it out that far)? If not you pop it out by taking off the front diff cover and levering it from inside. Detatch the bottom ball joint and sway bar link to swing the strut out for the driveshaft to have enough room to remove it. Hope that helps

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

but if thos pics are not yours.....getting it started the first time can be really difficult, there is a ciclip in there to stop ths shaft coming out easily. lever it from multiple points between the slot on the driveshaft and the diff cover bolts with bid screwdriver / pry bar.

if you are that far out and stuck you must have it cocked at an anle somehow...straighten by tapping on the side of the driveshaft and it should pop right out.

unless you cant get it any further because the other end is stopping it....in which case doo doo covered it

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

You need to remove the outer end from the wheel hub first. That entails effectively disassembling the front suspension to get enough movement of the hub to slip off the end of the shaft.

Then use pry bars in the machine slot of the inner end to lever the shaft out of the diff. (no need to remove the diff cover plate).

BTW - that's the RHS shaft. It only appears to be the LH shaft because you are looking at it from the front.

bbb Apprentice

bbb

Posted
Posted

guys,

having the same problem at the moment.

I have separated the shaft at the CV (grease everywhere), but cannot get the inboard part of the shaft out. Have undid the diff cover (only gotten it out about 15mm) hoping that once it is out of the way I might be able to get something behind the shaft end.

Can anyone help with exploded views / diagrams.

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

Ok well im preparing to pull the front passenger shaft on my RS4 Stagea as I've got a split inner CV boot :)

Theirs a good outline on page 10 and 11 of this manual for doing in for a gtr so think it should be much the same.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/4964854/GTR-Engine-Removal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • tylink720
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By tylink720 · Posted

      @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...