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What do you want to put it on?

On my RB20 GCG stage 2 really starts to come alive at about 4200 but i haven't tuned it yet. Needs a lot of fuel and ignition changes in the midrange though.

Sorry, didn't take any pics of it before it went on.

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Ah, now i know what you want to see.

The stock turbo will have a big nissan stamped on the compressor cover (funny that) and 45v1 as you have writen above.

Pull off the heat sheild on the turbine housing and check if theres a small plate attached next to the top oil fitting. GCG highflows have a little plaque here.

4500 is pretty late to be hitting 15psi with an rb25. It would have to have the turbine housing machined out to buggery to do that. I thought my car was laggy :rofl: and thats supposedly a 500 hp turbo on a 2 litre!?!

Only way to say for sure is rip the dump off and have a look at the exhaust turbine outlet to see if it's been machined to suit a larger wheel. Or take it to a place that does highflows on RB25 turbos for a look.

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Ah, now i know what you want to see.

The stock turbo will have a big nissan stamped on the compressor cover (funny that) and 45v1 as you have writen above.

Pull off the heat sheild on the turbine housing and check if theres a small plate attached next to the top oil fitting. GCG highflows have a little plaque here.  

4500 is pretty late to be hitting 15psi with an rb25. It would have to have the turbine housing machined out to buggery to do that. I thought my car was laggy :D and thats supposedly a 500 hp turbo on a 2 litre!?!

Only way to say for sure is rip the dump off and have a look at the exhaust turbine outlet to see if it's been machined to suit a larger wheel. Or take it to a place that does highflows on RB25 turbos for a look.

How do you know if its been machined.. ? whats it look like :)

also not many people know much about skylines up here (far north qld)

on the back of the exhaust side it has T459 written on it in yellow writing ?

if that means anything-- maby T-450.9 hp :rofl:??

any more help would be great :)

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You can see in the photos of the back of the turbo in the Skyline downunder thread that there is a bit of space between the turbine outlet and the edge of the body.

If it's been machined this gap will be reduced or nonexistant (like on mine). Basically the outlet size has been increased

Dunno about the numbers on the turbine, never looked at it

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You can see in the photos of the back of the turbo in the Skyline downunder thread that there is a bit of space between the turbine outlet and the edge of the body.

If it's been machined this gap will be reduced or nonexistant (like on mine). Basically the outlet size has been increased

Dunno about the numbers on the turbine, never looked at it

Thoes pics in sdu

thats pics of my bros turbo...

yer they look at big different to standard series 2 turbos...

and i think its steel or ceramic on the compressor side cause it hits full boost at 4,500rpm ?

or maby another problem? :D

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You've got me stumped then cos the turbine outlet size on that turbo looks stock.

Does the boost step up at some point?

R33s have a staged setup on the factory boost controller so it comes on lower initially and then steps up to the high setting. It should be making boost from 2500 rpm or even sooner.

You may want to start checking things like the wastegate actuator to ensure its closing properly and if you are running a bleed valve or something like that and it's not hooked up properly it may be stuffing things up.

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You've got me stumped then cos the turbine outlet size on that turbo looks stock.  

Does the boost step up at some point?  

R33s have a staged setup on the factory boost controller so it comes on lower initially and then steps up to the high setting. It should be making boost from 2500 rpm or even sooner.

You may want to start checking things like the wastegate actuator to ensure its closing properly and if you are running a bleed valve or something like that and it's not hooked up properly it may be stuffing things up.

Yup..

were running a turbo smart bleed valve..

after market boost guage and at 4,500 it just flys to 15psi.. pushes you back a little bit but then it reallys chucks you back at 5,000psi

but in second gear when you put your foot down it hits 15psi then drops down .. 14 - 13 - 12 - 11 - 10...

but in every other gear it holds fine :)

do you mean by making boost when the boost guage is moving past 0psi or when the pod starts sucking ??

I dont think its the bleede valve as it's always done that even with stock boost solonide, boost use you cut in at 4,500....

i was thinking maby its got a metal compressor wheel or ceramic.. because the stock series 2 turbos are plastic to make them spool up quicker. so thats maby why its spooling up so late ??

these are the mods were running...

Turbosmart bleed valve, Jasma 4.5" exhaust, 3inch dumpie, hks blow off valve, blitz stainless steel pod, 15 psi, fmic - not connected yet...

any body else got a turbo like this ??? let me know when your tubos spool up :)

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Bloody turbosmart, they have alot to answer for. Kidding :(

Is your bleed one of the new anodised red ones and is it a single stage switchable one.

I had a problem with mine where the gate wasn't letting pressure get away from the actuator and so i had no boost until 5000 or so because the actuator was partially stuck open. Worked fine on high boost though. I removed the gate and it worked fine after that.

The boost dropping off is a common thing with bleed valves. Don't worry about it...yet.

A metal front wheel wont affect the response that much, maybe a couple of hundred rpm difference.

Probably want to check that the turbo spins freely and that there are no boost leaks and stuff like that. Check the manifold to turbo gasket isn't blown. And check the wastegate isn't getting caught open somehow on the dump pipe. I had a mate who had this problem. Last resort is pull the turbo off and get it checked out, even if you have to courier it to someone further south.

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Hey,

We were muking around with it on saturday,

and we took the bleed valve off (red one)

and we put a $4 screw garden thingy from bunninges ware house lol...

and its regurlating the boost differently,

when changing gears like your racing it , 1st gear hits 15psi then drops back a little bit, 2nd gear it hits 13 - 15psi drops to 10psi, its pulling well in 1st and 2nd gear but then 3rd gear it hits about 10 drops to 5psi and same with 4th... havent got a chance to wind out in 5th yet :D...

but 1st and 2nd gear it the rpm guage flys to 7,000rpm and then 3rd it goes slow after 6,000 rpm and same with 4th gear....

also it starts making boost at 3,000rpm and hits full at 4,5000 - 5,000 still.... :rofl:

(we changed hoses from the boost controller to the actutator cause the previous one had a hole)..

but when your cruising along at about 80kph in 4th or 5th gear.. and you drop to 3rd and flatten right foot.. it hits 20psi and the fuel cut kicks in and then were off.. but in 1st and 2nd gear when your going slow and take off fast it hits 20 psi in both gears and the fuel cut doesnt kick in?

so im thinking that the fuel cut kicks in when under load? because it spikes at 20psi then drops back to 15psi the 10..:) but who knows if its more because we only got a 20psi boost guage !! :)

after all the blabber i just wanted to know what use think and why it bleeds off so much and now its not as strong in 3rd and 4th gear... as it use to be opposite 1st an 2nd were gutless and 3 - 4th were strong ???

thanks,

:)

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