Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey pplz

Im looking at buyin a car but newayz to the point..

Whats faster, i heard a stock sr20det is quicker than the rb25det, and working out the power to weight ratios this is true...

Im still keen on a R33 Skyline because i think they look better!!

But i was quite confused by a 180 bein quicker than a skyline...

Damn heavy machines hehe :)

A few mods on the Skyline and im sure that will be fixed tho :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29077-stock-180sx-stock-r33/
Share on other sites

ye Skylines are like 350-450kgs heavier arent they??

That would influence the outcome a fair bit hehe

Still i think Skylines look better, and looks is important to me aswell!!!

We'd all agree Skylines look better wouldnt we... being a non bias skyline forum :) haha

Mod for mod, the 180sx should be very slightly faster... Although for some reason, to me they feel much faster to drive - (not that i've driven that many) than the skyline .... In the end the actual difference is so small I think it would come down mostly to driver skill. As for that, my R33 is very picky. It's either an awesome launch, or darn shameful....

Just my thoughts.....

i had a silvia and it was quick and mod for mod as people have said the s13 has the edge over the skyline

Dont be worried about that though. Skylines are such a nicer refined car. I can actually fit people in my backseat now

Its got plenty of room and its a very cruisy car. The build quality is much better and overall a nicer car to drive.

But if u want best bang for your buck a s13 will get you good times on a budget.

My first car was a 95 M-spec R33 for 12 months... i chucked on a Garrett T03/4 turbo, custom AVO FMIC, full 3" from turbo, filter etc all the usuals and i sold it and now have a 97 Type-X 180sx... and they are very very different cars to drive. The skyline felt alot quicker even before the mod's btu realistically they are not, my 180 feels slow to drive but is actually just as quick if not quicker than when i first got my skyline. I only have Nismo 3", HKS filter and the rest is suspension mod's, i.e. Tein's, struts etc. and it feels fairly quick, but the best bit is hte mid range torque they have... down low they are crap, i'll say it honestly they are, but get them to 3,500-4 grand and its liek they wake from the dead. I got a few goodies here waiting to go on, a new Daiken Exedy race clutch, modified gearbox, Nismo billet stell one piece lightened flywheel and a few others so i'll tell more then before i actualyl get to any engine stuff but it looks promising at the moment. But my sky was definately a quick car.

Oh yeah and if you think its as easy to get 250rwkw as puting and exhaust and filter then boosting it your wrong... to get over 230rwkw, youw ill need, bigger turbo, cooler, filter, exhasut, injectors, computer, fuel pump, boost to a bar and then ya should be there... trust me i been there n done it and it aint that easy once ya get to 200 at the rears, the gains slow down real quick. But if you have a 180/silvia with 220 at the rears it would romp a skyline on the 1/4 with the same power.

the money u save buyin a 180sx rather than an R33 can be invested in some decent mods (like a stock R34 steel turbo which should bolt on). To get to 250rwkw you're lookin at at least 4 grand worth of work on both cars. Parts are very easy to come by for both. Its a hard call, do you like quick off the line stuff (180), or good top end stuff (R33).

I used to have a 180 CA18DET that did 174 at the rears and it took off the line like a bitch on heat, but my mates usually pulled me back by the time I was in 4th gear.

A stock R34 turbo will not bolt on cos it has a t3 exhaust flange, an SR has a T2* flange so any T25/28 etc will fit ONLY. A stock R34 turbo will not produce that power, and if youc an get an R33 to make 250 at the rear sfor 4 grand then yous hould open a shop and start business cos you'll have every skyline owner at ya feet... its bullcrap unless you basically steal half the parts. There is a good 1500-2000 ina good second hadn turbo, about 1500 min for a good cooler, boost controler, computer is at least 1500 fitted, fuel will max out wya before that so ya lookn at 280 odd for a bosch 040 pump and injectors about 500 for second hand ones say some Sard 550cc's should do it and then ya almost there. Thats not to mention an exhasut around a grand now days, filter is a couple of hundred and so on... sorry mate but it aint possible for 4grand.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
    • Welcome!  Can't go wrong with a Stag.
    • Looks good. Nice height.
    • Hey all, a little help from the Stagea hive mind plz.. I'm days away from buying either a 2002 Stagea 250tRS AR-X Four, premium leather, power seats and all the old switches etc that go with it, or a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO, pov pack, cloth seats etc, with coil overs, sports zorst, comes with original zorst and suspension and parts. (I think I've got the models right?) Both are VQ25DET, have 160000kms, both straight no rust both with $2000+ in recent servicing receipts, both ride on aftermarket 18" rims. The Aero has a replaced turbo as well. I like the cool factor of the Aero car but the AR-X has never been modified. Neither have been driven hardly at all in the last 5 years. Any thoughts on which one or does it come down to personal preference? davemoto 
×
×
  • Create New...