Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

got my shit back from ceramic coating.... looks the bomb! should work really well!

they used to offer two colours... silver or black with black being rated higher temps... they now have changed it to both colours being rathed the same high temps so naturally i went the silver option because it looks cooler :blink:

img0073u.jpg

img0075ki.jpg

img0076cr.jpg

img0077.jpg

img0078g.jpg

img0079ei.jpg

UPDATE

Got rear susp bushes and arms all installed.. getting alignment tomorrow. Noticed that on the hoist that my front left tie rod was unthreading out the rack... wtf.. nigles offset spacer had come undone even tho its loktited and done up fkn tight in there... bloody lucky i caught it in time!

got retune today... turns out straight on the rollers i was making 240 rwkw for G1's level of tune.... errrr shit! prob due to timing being out by 6 degrees due to removal and reinstallation of CAS even tho i marked it and put it back in the same spot... weird.

anyway so ran it up. jeff did some fine tuning and sorted out some area's which i wanted improved and we picked up a shit load more torque and lowdown power. total power was 310 rwkw on 17 psi... safe as houses with a 12:1 AFR.

goes goddamn hard now... so much better then the previous times i have driven it so should be a decent weapon soon once everything is sorted!

STILL HAVE NO BRAKES GGGGGGGGGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

  • 3 weeks later...

all in all it fits really well... took me 5-6 attempts to get the subframe up onto the studs evenly as it would catch and then not go evenly. the holes in the bushes are 20.5mm and the studs are 20mm so the extra was to allow for slightly offset studs etc. Bushes were machined so they wack in with a block of wood and hammer.. can come out easy enough if need be. If you lok at the pics you'll see some parts come bloody close to fouling but yeah it all seems to clear pretty well

img0194zg.jpg

img0192yp.jpg

img0193ml.jpg

p5060209.jpg

p5060210.jpg

p5060211.jpg

p5060212.jpg

p5060213.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
    • Yeah I spent close to a year finding one. I was even tempted to buy a RB25DE N/A head and port it out. That latter option, could still be an option.
×
×
  • Create New...