Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys need a little help.

I'm about to install a WMI kit on my RB26 and would like to know from those who have done it, and i guess also from those who have good reasoning, where is the bestest location for the nozzle???

Its basically the stock piping with the oem recirculating valves, but i would like to place the nozzle probably mid way in the original rubber hose which is about 4" away from the intake chamber, but i am concerned that this might be too close for even distribution across cylinders.

My concern is that i want to get at least water/meth as possible in the intake piping so when the bovs open, there would be a minimal amount of water/meth being blown back into the compressor hence no damage to the wheels.

My other option would be on the pipe that exits the cooler before the bovs,but again there would more spray back into the compressors.

Your thoughts.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291117-watermeth-injection/
Share on other sites

Drill and tap into the alloy pipe approx. 50-100mm before the throttle body. My instructions say as close as possible to the TB, but I put it back to 75mm to allow a bit better swirl mix before it goes to the cylinders. Works for a Gtst anyway.

both of you guys have rb25 (single throttle body) so its abit easier on placement choice, rb26 = itb(6)

smell how were you going to place it into the rubber pipe? make/buy an hard inlet pipe with a fitting?

Would it damage the compressor blades? it would circulate back into the inlet pipes of the turbo and turn into vapour?

I've ordered a kit from the states and was thinking of installing it into the pipe few inches past the exit of the intercooler in the inner guard, or just before the plenum intake, the pipe in the engine bay but I have made all my piping out of alloy, so installing will just require a bung welded in.

how many nozzles did you get aswell? could place them in multiple positions?

I see we are in the same boat!!!

The water can cause damage to the compressor blades over time thats why most manufactures do not recommend u put the nozzle before the compressor.

I am only going to use one nozzle but there are guys here that have used two, usually one before the cooler to aid with the cooler efficiency and one after.The problem with this though is water can puddle in the cooler,.... but again i can only go on what i have heard.... or read.

Come on guys, what do u recommend for the 26 ????

Nozzle before the cooler is stupid. U want to keep the air hot before the intercooler so the intercooler actually has something to do. The hotter the air, the more heat the intercooler can remove. In theory, just after the intercooler is best but the insides of the piping get droplets of water everywhere. In practice, the best place is about 100mm before the beginning of the plenum (where the throttle body would be if it had a single). DO NOT mount on the plenum or it'll have extremely uneven cylinder distribution.

Yeah, but the theory is the same.......

both of you guys have rb25 (single throttle body) so its abit easier on placement choice, rb26 = itb(6)

smell how were you going to place it into the rubber pipe? make/buy an hard inlet pipe with a fitting?

Would it damage the compressor blades? it would circulate back into the inlet pipes of the turbo and turn into vapour?

I've ordered a kit from the states and was thinking of installing it into the pipe few inches past the exit of the intercooler in the inner guard, or just before the plenum intake, the pipe in the engine bay but I have made all my piping out of alloy, so installing will just require a bung welded in.

how many nozzles did you get aswell? could place them in multiple positions?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...