Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

65L? Doubt it, a full fill for me from low fuel light (which had been on for about 30km) to full was 54L, which would indicate a 55ish litre tank.

And also remember, ADM DC5R is hugely different to the JDM version (which can't be imported). Aus Spec R's where basically the "spoiler and cool bodykit" version, where the JDM ones where stripped out, more power versions like the original R.

65L? Doubt it, a full fill for me from low fuel light (which had been on for about 30km) to full was 54L, which would indicate a 55ish litre tank.

Yeah nah.

When the light comes on you have around the 10-15L mark left in reserve.

if you're worried about fuel, then go get a yaris. Sorry to sound mean but its the truth.. performance cars burn fuel thats all there is to it

My mate has an Evo 8 and he gets around 250km a tank i have a r34 and i only get max 300 a tank.. but thats due to tuning and how we drive etc...

In reply to your question .. An evo 6 TME would be better than a DC5R.. but by the sounds of it you dont want to spend money on maintence so go get the dc5r

damn man! only 300km? i always fill up at around the 480km mark and thats still with fuel left in the tank!

Having worked for honda and i own a evo 6

i whould go the integra just for sale value and so on

evo 6 have droped in price heaps in the last year and if you want get a evo 5 you can import them now and they are even cheaper evo 6 are fun but they have turned into the new WRX alot of people buying them and thrashing them treating them like shit thinking that they have become a good driver overnight due to the car doing all the work

if you want i will sell you my evo 6 HAHA comes with a blown motor but comes with a BC 2.4L stroker kit and HKS inletmanifold HAHA

Having worked for honda and i own a evo 6

i whould go the integra just for sale value and so on

evo 6 have droped in price heaps in the last year and if you want get a evo 5 you can import them now and they are even cheaper evo 6 are fun but they have turned into the new WRX alot of people buying them and thrashing them treating them like shit thinking that they have become a good driver overnight due to the car doing all the work

if you want i will sell you my evo 6 HAHA comes with a blown motor but comes with a BC 2.4L stroker kit and HKS inletmanifold HAHA

Thx for the offer bro, but i think i would go for something stock. Dont think i have the skills to to handle a 2.4 now lol

Also a TME will hold its value better if you dont mod it like basic mods are fine just keep stock parts as once you start modding them they seem to go for the same price as a gsr

i guess aftermarket cold air intake, catback, front pipe, boost controller, coilovers and wheels are still in the basic mods list yea ? wont be touching much bout the engine. And just want to know, will the price drop alot after the car went for track ? Thx for any comment

i guess aftermarket cold air intake, catback, front pipe, boost controller, coilovers and wheels are still in the basic mods list yea ? wont be touching much bout the engine. And just want to know, will the price drop alot after the car went for track ? Thx for any comment

+1 for those mods and yes the price will drop if you sell it with all the mods on it IMO.

Or you won't get back the same amount of money you put in, but in some cases ppl do get the money back on the mods.

I test drove a new one of these (HARD) a couple of years ago.

Had just stepped out of a Renault Sport CUp Clio which blew me away on it's handling.

Although the Honda revved to 8,400 rpm and gave me a head ache after 20mins of driving (noise from behind firewall, not exhaust), the handling was deplorable and the interior was basic for the $ asked.

I've never been in an Evo 6, but the Honda handled like my old Corolla. The end.

I test drove a new one of these (HARD) a couple of years ago.

Had just stepped out of a Renault Sport CUp Clio which blew me away on it's handling.

Although the Honda revved to 8,400 rpm and gave me a head ache after 20mins of driving (noise from behind firewall, not exhaust), the handling was deplorable and the interior was basic for the $ asked.

I've never been in an Evo 6, but the Honda handled like my old Corolla. The end.

Thanks for the advise bro. yea agree with the handling, FWD cant make much special on handling, and i guess the dc5r is now out from my choise because might quite hard to get one with 20k budget :)

Edited by blackeagle299

The question is not what the resale value is, its what gets your heart racing the most :)

I never buy a car with the thought in my mind that i have to baby it or be scared of it because itll end up with someone else.

Hence the 25 000 dollar, 13 year old R33 in my driveway :thumbsup:

Who cares how old it is or how much someone else is gonna pay for it.

Its about how much fun you have in it while its yours :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...