Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have searched all over the net, and mostly in this forum without any results, except dobt to every pinout i see.

I've found out that the PFC is to complicated for me to install and make everything work with the auto transfer, so i've started looking för the E-manage Ultimate, but I need to know which cables I need to relocate.

So where can i find an accurate pinout for the "23740-0V300" ECU?

//Micke

(I live in sweden and will not let the mechanics into my car, they are just to clumsy.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291233-where-do-i-find-the-ecu-pinout/
Share on other sites

Any aftermarket ECU will have issues for the autobox with regards to retarding timing on shifts.

The people that run autos with PowerFC's, Emanage or any other aftermarket ECU accept the compromise of harsher shifts and higher wear on the auto.

wolverine:

I have no problem with harder shifts or more wear. I'll guess the increased effect of the enginge will effekt that part to.

What i want is get it to work at all, and follow the engine abowe the 300hp limit of the factory ecu.

If understand everything right will the factory ecu play with the e-manage and will just be supported by the copgyback, but i can be very wrong in that. When i read the PFC thread they had a lot of trouble to get in work in a manual, and i haven't found anyone that succeded with an automatic.

But I'm a newbie in tuning the stag, so I get a lot of thing wrong.

chook:

Got the first edition of the s1 (1996).

I've found the S2 pinouts, and i've seen the thread about "duncan"s problems with the pfc.

There shall be 3different types of pinouts just for the S1, in which i have the first one.

So I need a datasheet like the one for the s2.

Here are the S1 pinouts (for a GReddy Emanage they are very similar to the R34 ones in the DIY section with a few differences):

WGC34_Series_1___STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_Pinout_translated.xls

wolverine:

I have no problem with harder shifts or more wear. I'll guess the increased effect of the enginge will effekt that part to.

What i want is get it to work at all, and follow the engine abowe the 300hp limit of the factory ecu.

If understand everything right will the factory ecu play with the e-manage and will just be supported by the copgyback, but i can be very wrong in that. When i read the PFC thread they had a lot of trouble to get in work in a manual, and i haven't found anyone that succeded with an automatic.

But I'm a newbie in tuning the stag, so I get a lot of thing wrong.

chook:

Got the first edition of the s1 (1996).

I've found the S2 pinouts, and i've seen the thread about "duncan"s problems with the pfc.

There shall be 3different types of pinouts just for the S1, in which i have the first one.

So I need a datasheet like the one for the s2.

There are plenty of people that have used PFC's on autos. It works exactly the same as a factory ECU except there is no code to reduce timing to ease the shifts on the PFC, hence the shifts are a bit harsher and this increases wear on the auto.

Mating the plug to the PFC is the trickiest thing particulary on S1 stageas due to the 3 different ECU pinout configurations.

(dangerman4 has written a bit on his experiences with auto's and PFC in forced induction)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...