Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here's the story, i just got some bits and pieces bolted onto my engine and now when it was getting tuned the boost was wound up to 13psi and then if any more boost was put in or timing put in the engine started to ping.

The exact mods are:

FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, low mounted biago turbo (same size wheels as t03/04e but smaller housings), z32 AFM, z32 ECU with nistune, nismo 740cc SF injectors, catch can.

Original thoughts were that the cat converter in the exhaust may have been creating too much back pressure so the cat was removed and still the enging detonated at 13psi, second thought was that the rocker covers were being presurised so fitted a catch can and still engine detonated at 13psi.

Any thoughts or tips would be appreciated, but no stupid comments please.

Thanks all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291318-rb25-pinging/
Share on other sites

what type of FMIC do u have that could be causing problems, a friend of mine had similar problem as u and it turned out that the FMIC that he had was not up to the task of holding 250 at the rears and was making the engine ping do to lack of air-flow.

hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291318-rb25-pinging/#findComment-4871848
Share on other sites

pinging, detonation, knocking is caused by insufficient octane level or too much heat, dont go past the fuel, crack a line, one whiff will tell u if its premium, bad air fuel ratios, try adding more fuel to cool charge depending on ratios, heat soak, incorrectly positioned dyno fans or insufficient cool down betweeen runs.

Edited by Dorifta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291318-rb25-pinging/#findComment-4871892
Share on other sites

Yeah good idea. Because every RB25 can handle the exact same amount of ignition timing. We will be able to find the problem by looking at the timing maps straight away.

post up your timing maps, at least that will give us an idea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291318-rb25-pinging/#findComment-4871920
Share on other sites

what are the afr's doing when it's pinging?

some possible causes are:

you could have 1 cylinder that is leaning out so while the afr's are ok when taking from after the turbo are all fine, you could have 5 cylinders running rich and 1 running lean as anything and that is what is pinging. pull out your plugs and see what they look like and make sure they all look the same.

it could also be that your exhaust cam is a tooth out on the timing belt so while you think you are at 15 degrees, it is actually at 30 degrees or something like that.

what are your engine temps doing? if the cooling system isn't working that well then your engine temps cause be contributing to the pinging

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291318-rb25-pinging/#findComment-4872048
Share on other sites

thanks for all the replies guys it gives me a few more roads to go down to stop the pinging.

R34GT-t_07 - my FMIC is a greddy kit but the pipe work isn't all that thick so it may be another thing.

I'll have to find the dyno print outs and see what the timing is doing, but if we put a heap of timing and pulled boost out it would ping and if we pulled timing out and put boost in we still got the exact same result.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291318-rb25-pinging/#findComment-4872075
Share on other sites

thanks for all the replies guys it gives me a few more roads to go down to stop the pinging.

R34GT-t_07 - my FMIC is a greddy kit but the pipe work isn't all that thick so it may be another thing.

I'll have to find the dyno print outs and see what the timing is doing, but if we put a heap of timing and pulled boost out it would ping and if we pulled timing out and put boost in we still got the exact same result.

weve run close to 400rwkw through the Greddy ls kit, so scrap that idea.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291318-rb25-pinging/#findComment-4872116
Share on other sites

but if we put a heap of timing and pulled boost out it would ping and if we pulled timing out and put boost in we still got the exact same result.

all cars with your setup will do that on normal fuel when you push them to the limit. theres only something wrong if its pinging with very little timing or if its making stupidly low power

and if there isnt anything wrong and you get the same result either way then run with less boost and slightly more timing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291318-rb25-pinging/#findComment-4872495
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...