Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So with the help of Luke and a few others today we got the gearbox out of my car to try and find out what was behind the bad grinding sounds and gear selecting problems. As soon as the clutch came off the reason for the grinding sound was pretty clear. The clutch centre was rubbing on the bolt heads on the centre of the flywheel. Im not to sure what caused this to happen but im very happy that the clutch didn't explode at the time attack on monday as the result could have been pretty bad.

I'll have a look on here to see what i can find but if anyone has any hook ups with clutches let me know. Gonna go for a twin plate this time round, need some thing thats good for 300kw+

flywheel.jpg

clutch2.jpg

clutch.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Woah! Lucky it didn't let go at the time attack.

Glad to hear you caught it just in time. Didn't look like it would have lasted much long.

and +1 to never seeing a clutch like that before. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4873255
Share on other sites

Kubos motorsport, do good GENUINE Exedy clutches, all parts branded Exedy, not mix and match crap. Talk to him, very helpfull, good quality and great prices. There are some RB25/30s running these clutches, i'm pretty sure cubes was impressed with his.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4873314
Share on other sites

The clutch centre was rubbing on the bolt heads on the centre of the flywheel. Im not to sure what caused this to happen but im very happy that the clutch didn't explode at the time attack on monday as the result could have been pretty bad.

Pretty clear that the clutch centre let go 1st and then bowed out against the flywheel bolts......obviously bolts need to be replaced now regardless if they're still tight.

Seen clutches like that before....usually caused by hard launches or flat changing causing the centre to over flex.....also if it's excessively tight over the splines during release.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4873390
Share on other sites

The springs probably bottomed out also, causeing shock loading which made it crack. I'm no expert on clutches but I know my metals, those cracks look like a combination of high temps and shock loading.

I was just saying the other day at vilis that i didn't like those clutches after a bad exerience I had with mine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4873437
Share on other sites

i could probably get you an os for a decent price.

If you could find out that would be awesome, I'm after a twin plate to take 350-400rwkw and lots of track use. Also need it ASAP!

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4876533
Share on other sites

True twin plates are never going to be as good as a single for very quick gear changes as you're attempting to release 2 driven plates as opposed to 1.

However, we don't have a drag strip and grip racing doesn't require the lightning fast changes that drag racing does, hence why I went for the Coppermix Twin plate......which in actual fact, is not a true twin plate (ie. with intermediate plate) cause it uses a single sprung Boss Drive. The other reason I went this way is cause of the lighter diaphram that you can get away with and still get a greater clamping pressure.

I've never ever liked solid centre style driven plates or the metal button style ones either cause they're not forgiving as a daily driver. Also double diaphram pressure plates used to be the rage years ago but your left calf muscle needs to be bigger that your right, lol. Drivelines also hate these 3 style of setups.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4876582
Share on other sites

yeah I had one let go in similar fashion , opened up the pressure plate to find shrapnel inside it on my RX7, Aluminum flywheel / Center force racing clutch

make sure you check the run out on the flywheel, bet it could be borderline to thin?

also check the bearings on the input shaft ,always replace the center pilot bearing, you call it something else in OZ. but it goes into the crankshaft?

good time to swap out the seals on the input shaft as well ?

and if your real bored polish the casing to mirror finish..hahahah

sucks mate but least your floor doesnt have a hole in it from the flywheel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4877746
Share on other sites

yeah I had one let go in similar fashion , opened up the pressure plate to find shrapnel inside it on my RX7, Aluminum flywheel / Center force racing clutch

make sure you check the run out on the flywheel, bet it could be borderline to thin?

also check the bearings on the input shaft ,always replace the center pilot bearing, you call it something else in OZ. but it goes into the crankshaft?

good time to swap out the seals on the input shaft as well ?

and if your real bored polish the casing to mirror finish..hahahah

sucks mate but least your floor doesnt have a hole in it from the flywheel

Scopot Bush?!

Edit: Damn word filter, i mean one of these - i bet the word filter messed with the link.

Edited by Aberax
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291411-clutch-fail/#findComment-4877991
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...