Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtst Computer Quick Question

scotti-boi
 Share

Recommended Posts

scotti-boi Explorer

scotti-boi

Posted
Posted

i own a 93' r32 gtst, it has never missed a beat, on the long weekend we went down to canberra and as i entered canberra something started stuffing up it was popping and carying on and wouldnt rev over 5500rpm.

It was taken to an authorised nrma repaired and he couldnt put his fingure on the cause.

After towing the car home yesterday i have replaced coilpacks, spark plugs and i have an ignitor being posted to arrive on wednesday.

After replacing the coilpacks and plugs this problem still remains and i was talking to the mechanic and he seems to think it has something to do with the ecu as he cleared an ignition problem when my car was with him.

I was curious because he said it was a chipped ecu, and after replacing the other things i pulled it out just then myself.

It has a intec racing development sticker on the ecu and off the chip inside it has 3 wires coming out of the ecu with little connectores to join to 3 wires that lead somewere in my car these are out the other side of the ecu to were the plug side is.

What are these wires for and the wire colours are red, blue and white... What do you guys recomend? im on the verge of just buying a stock ecu and seeing what happens and how the car runs but if i do that what do i do with these 3 wires that lead somewere in my car as the stock ecu doesnt have these wires coming out will this effect the car if they arnt pluged into the ecu?

Let me know asap please.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291494-r32-gtst-computer-quick-question/
Share on other sites
scotti-boi Explorer

scotti-boi

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ok i have traced the white, red and blue wires that lead out of the ecu, they are connected to a switch that was hiden under the dash the three wires are soldered onto the chip inside the ecu. i tried using the switch and changing the switch between the 2 (on /off) and its still the same im just thinking weather this on/off switch is for the chip and switching between the stock ecu mapping and the chip's mapping?

Edited by scotti-boi
scotti-boi Explorer

scotti-boi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok i just think i found the problem. the ignitor sitting ontop of the rocker cover i think is the problem. i just tried starting my car n it would crank then die crank a little more n die like it has a flat battery but it doesnt lol. i unplugged the ignitor tried starting it and the cranking of the engine was normal speed but obviously couldnt fire up cos i had the ignitor unpluged. then i pluged it back in and it started f*king up again when trying to start... my ignitor arrives wednesday so we will see then but im pritty sure its that from what i did but its very hard to explain what actually happens over the net

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...