Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When people say 'stock', i think they are just emphasising the fact that no extra load has been put on the engine. ie. no boost controllers and cams adjustments and blah blah blah.

Exhaust should actually take a load off your engine (but in turn, it runs better so you give it more to compensate hehe)

When I had my R32 which had a stock exhaust system (but pod filter) I played with the boost. I tried to measure reasonably accurately the effects (0-100, some 400m runs etc) and the fastest it was happy at while keeping temps reasonable was about 0.8 bar so about 11psi. More boost actually started to go backwards. I stuffed up once and let it goto 1.1bar, it was slow as thou I didn't hear it detonate suprisingly.

As for my current R33, as per Rev210 ditch the two step its crap... or for a free mod just wire it so its always on asa temporary solution...

When I had my R32 which had a stock exhaust system (but pod filter) I played with the boost.  I tried to measure reasonably accurately the effects (0-100, some 400m runs etc) and the fastest it was happy at while keeping temps reasonable was about 0.8 bar so about 11psi.  More boost actually started to go backwards.  I stuffed up once and let it goto 1.1bar, it was slow as thou I didn't hear it detonate suprisingly.  

As for my current R33, as per Rev210 ditch the two step its crap... or for a free mod just wire it so its always on asa  temporary solution...

what do you mean by, "for a free mod just wire it so its always on asa temporary solution.." ?

as in just a standard bleed valve?

thx

people say its stock so when u get owned on a race u can say its stock compaired to your etc etc..

yeah thats why my cars stock except for pod, zorst, rb26, supercharger, another zorst, 5 turbos, 10 stickers ... kekeke :cheers:

and to the guy with a quiet 5zigen exhaust?? are u sure its quiet?? or is it quiet compared to others LOL .. cause mine is quiet compared to others ... its jasma too... dont' know the brand ... but u can still hear it a mile away :(

just threw in a turbosmart bleed valve yesterday afternoon - was quite humid day so left it to midnight

until me and my mate went to tune in the psi

1st gear running on 10psi

while 2nd & 3rd gets 9-10 psi

4th goes to 9-10 psi but drops to 8 psi

yep ibleeded my bitch to 9-10 without any mods, YEP NO exhuast just K&N filter

performance? - yep 1st gears kicks in harder and i can feel the car pushing harder at high revs.

what are my chances up agaisnt a

stock gtst with 3" CAT back not boosted (7pis standard)

will i eat ihm alive or shall it be close?

gonna arrange a run with him this weekend ;o

wish me luck

and to the guy with a quiet 5zigen exhaust?? are u sure its quiet?? or is it quiet compared to others LOL .. cause mine is quiet compared to others ... its jasma too... dont' know the brand ... but u can still hear it a mile away  :D

yeh my one is pretty quiet man. Its louder than stock but not by much. You may be right tho. I have to get someone to give it a bit of a thrashing with me watching it from the side to hear what it sounds like.

With the windows down u can hear it droning in the background a little.

I also purchased a factory stock skyline. Standard exhaust, air box and everything else.

It's a good thing to do as I can notice huge differences with every mod I do.

I recently had a custom exhaust made and fitted with a BMW racing muffler to be a little different.

I noticed phenominal differences with the exhaust, new air pod.

mupkant i know what it feels like to buy a stock 33 and to be broke, just have a few quiet weekends and save for the full exhaust system its worth it! as QuickR33Melb said it makes a phenominal difference

QuickR33Melb if you have just added the zorst and pod I think you will find that you will need a new clutch soon cos that extra power and boost just munches the stock one (just found that out)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...