Bang For Buck Tyres.

[The Dan]

Ok no worries.

Spend the dollars and get the front more adjustable. Both tyres will not push through while cornering with around 3 degrees. At the moment you are probably getting a bit more wear on the outside edge of the front due to insufficient camber.

Unless it's a street car, then you'll be getting a whole lot of inside wear due to specs

[ssxRicho]

yeh the federals wore the shoulders away, like you say, not enough camber.

im looking for some front camber arms. its just the single piece arms cost an arm and a leg.

[_Ryan_]

yeh the federals wore the shoulders away, like you say, not enough camber.

im looking for some front camber arms. its just the single piece arms cost an arm and a leg.

Do you have one or two sets of bushes ATM?

[ssxRicho]

single set on the outside upper arm.

not sure if you can run another on the inner arm, the bush is pretty thin.

[The Dan]

single set on the outside upper arm.

not sure if you can run another on the inner arm, the bush is pretty thin.

Fulcrum do a superpro inner and outer kit to give you around 3 neg

[ssxRicho]

Fulcrum do a superpro inner and outer kit to give you around 3 neg

legend. thanks.

jumped on the fulcrum web page, it didnt list the part. consulted google and found the parts page.

and there it is 0.5+- upper-inner bush.

sweet

[NISSAN GTR]

federal tyres look good and fill the guards up but they are generally very square which will gives uneven wear on the track , kumho ku36 are a good buy if your on a budget , tyre wear is not bad actually for a medium wear tyre , more expensive again i would go with yokohama ADVAN ad07 or 08s really sticky tyres,i actually have noticed difference between these and bridgestones re-11 only slightly though .

good luck

[JimmyRickard]

hey guys looking at buying some semis for the GTR, and i'm down to two options. I can source Fed RSR's off here for $290 a corner, or i can get Toyo R888's fitted for $325 a corner through Taleb Tyres.

What's the better option?

[scathing]

R888s make better sustained motorsport tyres, where you've got time to heat them up and you'll be hammering them for a while.

RS-Rs make better street/sprint motorsport tyres, where you don't get an opportunity to really get some heat into them and you're not going flat stick for a long time.

[JimmyRickard]

R888s make better sustained motorsport tyres, where you've got time to heat them up and you'll be hammering them for a while.

RS-Rs make better street/sprint motorsport tyres, where you don't get an opportunity to really get some heat into them and you're not going flat stick for a long time.

How many laps would you require to get heat into the toyos? and which tyre will last longer overall?

I can't imagine spending any more than say 10 laps out at wakefield at a time. Also I can buy both tyres for the same price, and the car will not see the street at all.

Cheers!

[V-Spec]

RE001 (Jap made) treadwear is 220, traction A temp A. Try and find a tyre lower in the treadwear but with a AA traction rating.

secconded

[JimmyRickard]

Was that an answer to my question? I'm confused

[ssxRicho]

if the car isnt going to see the street then get the 888's, or something better like RE55 or AO48/50

KU36 and 595RSR street tyres with 140/180 tw cant be compared to 888, RE55 or AO's r-compound tyres with 40-80 tw

[frozenpod]

What you need to ask yourself is what is the car being used for?

Each tyre is built for a purpose, buy your tyres for what you intend to use the car for

This thread has soo much crap and not enough fact but the above comment is right on the money

It all comes down to your application and what you are prepaired to live with.

For street tyres I personally wouldn't live with the 595RS-R's but I can live with the KU36's others may be able to live with the 595RS-R's for street use. Neither are a full semi slick and the KU36's are a street tyre that can take a little heat and also has better dry performance with a loss of wet performance as a concequence IMO.

The 595RS-R's are a step ahead in performance but there is again a concequence.

I went with KU36's as my car is a weekend car never drivin in the the wet that occasionally sees the track my mate with the same car uses his car daily and regular track, motokarna and hillclimb events uses 595RS-R's on a separate set of rims that he bolts on the night before. He went with the 595RS-R's over other semi slicks due to cost, life and he was advised they do not need to get as hot to reach peak grip levels which he would not acheive with R comps at motorkarnas and hillclimbs.

The 595RS-R's do have more grip compared with the KU36's, they do have much stiffer side walls but not quite in the legal of R888's AD048's RE55s ect and they are not as nice to drive on compared with the KU36's.

The are both different enough that they suit different applications but most importantly they are both good quality tyres that are reasonably priced and perform well in there class.

I choose the KU36's over AD08's as they reveiwed better for dry performance, the AD08 is a more rounded tyre and it is overall better (costs a lot more too) but all out dry performance from tire racks and GRM tests the KU36's just topped the charts and for my application offered better value for money.

[scathing]

How many laps would you require to get heat into the toyos?

Your out lap onto a circuit should be enough to get them up to temp. If not, by the first 2-3 corners on your first flying lap you should be right.

and which tyre will last longer overall?

The R888s will last longer before overheating and going greasy during a circuit session.

The RS-Rs will cover more kilometres before needing replacement.

I can't imagine spending any more than say 10 laps out at wakefield at a time. Also I can buy both tyres for the same price, and the car will not see the street at all.

R888s then. I'll also assume they're only driven on in the dry, which rules out the RS-Rs superior wet weather performance.

I'm referring to stuff like motorkhanas and hillclimbs (or 1 lap dashes from a cold start) when I'm talking about "sprint". With those events, each individual run is done and dusted in < 1 min and you need maximum grip from the moment you take off.

The R888s will provide you with more outright grip as well, so your lap times should be lower on the circuit.

If you can afford Bridgestone RE55S, they are a better bang-for-buck tyre in my opinion (I've circuited on both). However, if you're just getting into circuit work then the R888s are cheaper. You can learn on a cheaper R-Comp before spending up on grippier rubber once you know what driving on them is like. R-Comps behave a little differently than street radials on the track, especially at the limit, so there is a slight learning curve.