Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

seems as though the new gtr suffers the same problems of its older brother blisteringly quick but ultimately uninvolving.oh well take enjoyment in the fact that while youre smashing everything else on track...i was going to add more but i think that bout sez it

  • 2 weeks later...
Name a car that 'keeps' it's value?

You can pick up a R33 for 30K now that cost 100K when released. the Ferrari that its just a few seconds faster than (on that track) cost probably 300K on release and 200K or so now. (approximate, of course).

You can pick up a R33 for 30K now that cost 100K when released. the Ferrari that its just a few seconds faster than (on that track) cost probably 300K on release and 200K or so now. (approximate, of course).

Ok so it's lost 70% of it's original value in what, 14 ish years. That's not holding its value...

Ok so it's lost 70% of it's original value in what, 14 ish years. That's not holding its value...

Err, that's exactly what i said. "50000 pounds. Hasn't kept its value since then... (good or bad, who knows?)"

Compared to the ferrari, at least. My point is, you can get a car that's about as fast (in certain conditions) for a lot less nowdays.

You can pick up a R33 for 30K now that cost 100K when released. the Ferrari that its just a few seconds faster than (on that track) cost probably 300K on release and 200K or so now. (approximate, of course).

yeah... nah, your wrong

Private Price Guide $104,700 - $118,800

both are worth about a 1/3rd of their original price, except if you bought the ferrari you would have lost triple the money :blush:

So obviously we need to all be rich and buy cars like ther Ferrari F40 and McLaren F1 which GAIN value.

I'd like to see top gear do a test like this now with newer versions of these cars... well an evo instead of the 3000gt.

Edited by aDrew_C

One thing Id like to point out.

For a Ferrari of that price range, would only have about hmm 5-20k kms on the clock. If you have a look around, Most are Very low Kms.

Now if you did the same comparison to teh R33 for examlpe.? How much do you think you would have to payf or a R33 GTR thats only done a 'Genuine 15k kms'

My guess. 50k -65k or more?

^^^Dont they always :P

lol "teh GTR can neva loose!!" - it's a right call though, gtr's are uninvolving to drive. seriously, i've driven r33 gtr's that felt slow, and then it runs a 12 all day every day lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...