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farkin! bit big! you could photograph Tasmania from your balcony Troy.

its kinda like that...lol that is only part of it , another part doubles the 1300mm to 2600mm. its like waist high now from the floor..lol

took some other photos with them the other day,,,but its so amazing you cant tell how far away it is of a kite surfer. he was a few K's out at least

if your a lay person like myself, this is a good read, how a rotary engine works.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine4.htm

Rotary engines rock,,, rev like hell , sound isnt as smooth but still goes like hell

get used to them you might have one someday

http://www.autoweb.com.au/cms/A_55754/titl...ewsarticle.html

Rotary engines rock,,, rev like hell , sound isnt as smooth but still goes like hell

get used to them you might have one someday

http://www.autoweb.com.au/cms/A_55754/titl...ewsarticle.html

+1. Alot of people don't like the sound, I'm quite fond of pp/bp and turbo rotaries. Probably still to this day, a rotary is the fastest car I've been in...

Hmmm..

Cars making big ass clunking noises over bumps like the coilovers don't want to stay under the guards. All bolted up mint and tight too. Don't know wtf going on.

do u have adjustable camber arms? thats the noisiest component of my suspension

-D

I have nothing. It's actually like the coilover is about to fall out. Took the wheel off with Wayne earlier and all the bolts are tight. Shook the coilover and right at the top of the going it makes a knocking sound. I don't know if anything is hitting anywhere. But it wasn't making the noise yesterday

I have nothing. It's actually like the coilover is about to fall out. Took the wheel off with Wayne earlier and all the bolts are tight. Shook the coilover and right at the top of the going it makes a knocking sound. I don't know if anything is hitting anywhere. But it wasn't making the noise yesterday

sounds like the bump stop needs replacing (if it even has one - some (like my old bilsteins) dont have bump stops)

-D

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    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
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