Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What would it mean if a car was spitting and splitting and losing power.

On idle, it's dropping revs and almost stalling.

I checked the leads and they looked ok, but I don't gave a tool to get my plugs out it seemed to have gone walk abouts.

Checked and tighten everything I could. It's a charade btw

Can that....looks like it survived the ordeal.

I suppose you could give it a razor and it could put itself out :P

sexy_emo.jpg

It even took the pics of your car Cara!! :)

bahahahahahahaha thats well put Pete! nice one!

but the EMU lol had to be killed, i thought it was already dead but it must have just been knocked out, my mate Dale, who lives in Renmark came to my rescue, and he unfortunatley had to kill it, i didnt see it move, but he said it nealry caused a 5 car pile up because it was trying to get on the road and a L plater slammed on the brakes and 4 cars behind him and swerve to miss him....

but on a serious note she will be picked up by my crash repairer tomorow, i was able to get in contact with him yesterday........id hate to know what a new front guard is gonna cost from nissan, i already know the headlight will cost $1800.......

if there are a fair few scratches on my door window does anyone know if they will replace that too?

Scartchs just mean they will sand back and repaint, dents that cannot be removed will mean it is to be replaced

________

I just love it when I organise someone to come pick the silvia up, spent the better part of this whole week negotiating prices etc, and then I'm told he will be coming last night, changes it to today and Midday, and now his phone is off.......

Its a shame because he looks to be a pretty active SAU user, not just some no name person that seen my FS thread..

FFS!!

Edited by Weezy
running your gt3076 with the .7 compressor housing on your low mount manifold might have clearance problems with your engine mount

when i mounted my gt35 on my 6boost low mount manifold i had to have the engine mount machined down a bit to make it clear

Adrian as i said above^^^^^

I WARNED YOU THAT IT WILL HAVE CLEARANCE PROBLEMS!!!!!!!!!!!

I just left a thing on your FB but I'll post here,

Ummm, every now and then my car will drop idle and bounce round for a few seconds and then idle and drive fine, then other times i'll be cruising at whatever speed/RPM and it'll do the same similar thing just drop like all power etc for a few seconds and then act and drive fine.

In my old VLCT, I experianced the same thing with my RB30ET... Could be AFM's too :\

Hmmm... odd problem indeed. If I were you I'd borrow someone else's CAS to try it out first, no point buying one only to find that wasn't the problem to begin with. Besides Nissan will charge you through the ass for one me thinks. I can get you a price if you really want

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...