Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Aberax i see your having troubles deciding what clutch to choose..... I highly recommend the same one that i got which was through the group buy that madaz did. I had an R33 GTST with 250 RWKW and i hammered the thing with no problems at all. Before this i went through 2 other clutches. The NPC setup was VERY easy to drive and was capable of a fair amount of abuse :) . Good luck in what ever clutch you choose to go with :)
hi abe im oz pommys dad

we just had his standed flywheel machined the npc clutch worked a treat and had been in the car over 12 months before he sold the car .

it copped a fair hammering in the time he drove ....i mean thrashed it lol . b4 then i had fitted 2 clutches in about 18 months too the car

pedal had good feel and the cluch was good in traffic

cheers dean

Thank you Dean, Allan, and Everyone else that helped. :)

Looks like i shall get the NPC Organic Coppermix, or i may email him asking about the 5puk Ceramic. Its going to be more expensive then the Xtreme, but i suppose you get what you pay for - Poor Man Pays Twice.

Thanks Again

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I need to borrow a trailer ... 6x4 or 7x5 sized.

Can anyone help me out? Need it for this weekend, can return it Tuesday. Needs to be registered of course. I'm traveling interstate to pick up a go kart for the little lad.

Can anyone PM me with any loan trailer they can grant me.

:)

i like to think of myself as a pretty patient guy....

BUT FOR PHUCKSAKES I WANT MY SKYLINE BACK AND FINISHED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, i know what you mean. Mine has been off the road for 2-3 weeks with a fried clutch, and its going to be about another 2-3 weeks before its good again :)
Ive been waiting since November for my engine. Been driving an R32 with a busted engine since October. I win :cool:
i have had my 31 since october, and only done one skid. depressing.

workshop has had it for >5 weeks. depressing.

i know there was a fair bit of work, but geez, srs?

LOL i don't know what your complaining about, my cars been off the road since march last year and i have only now just started to build the engine.
im in the same boat as you boys but i havnt driven my line in like 6 months :huh:

Oh boo hoo all of you.

I've had my car on the road for less than 12 months since the start of 2006!

Hey guys,

After finally having run in the engine, i'm looking at getting it tuned

I've got a power fc at home, but been reading a bit about D-jetro recently..

just weighing up my options:

1) Buy Nismo AFM ($800-$900)

Or

2) Sell Power FC, Sell Standard AFM then Buy D-jetro

anyone here run a d-jetro? cons/pros?

David Blue32 run d-jetro and swears by it for being able to run the car and problem solve air leaks and turbo problems

Abe a NPC ceramic should be cheaper than a xtreme

from memory that price you quoted used to be for his 5puk ceramic maybe he has put his prices up i dont know

Hey guys,

After finally having run in the engine, i'm looking at getting it tuned

I've got a power fc at home, but been reading a bit about D-jetro recently..

just weighing up my options:

1) Buy Nismo AFM ($800-$900)

Or

2) Sell Power FC, Sell Standard AFM then Buy D-jetro

anyone here run a d-jetro? cons/pros?

If your worried about the $$, why Nismo afm?

Honestly, if I had my choice all over again, I'd go a Vipec

Hey guys,

After finally having run in the engine, i'm looking at getting it tuned

I've got a power fc at home, but been reading a bit about D-jetro recently..

just weighing up my options:

1) Buy Nismo AFM ($800-$900)

Or

2) Sell Power FC, Sell Standard AFM then Buy D-jetro

anyone here run a d-jetro? cons/pros?

David Blue32 run d-jetro and swears by it for being able to run the car and problem solve air leaks and turbo problems

Abe a NPC ceramic should be cheaper than a xtreme

from memory that price you quoted used to be for his 5puk ceramic maybe he has put his prices up i dont know

So should i get the Organic Coppermix, or get a 5puk ceramic? I think you posted earlier in this thread i should go ceramic, but just want to reaffirm.

never heard of it? :cool:

any more details?

http://www.vi-pec.com/

Hey guys,

After finally having run in the engine, i'm looking at getting it tuned

I've got a power fc at home, but been reading a bit about D-jetro recently..

just weighing up my options:

1) Buy Nismo AFM ($800-$900)

Or

2) Sell Power FC, Sell Standard AFM then Buy D-jetro

anyone here run a d-jetro? cons/pros?

Are you maxxing out your current stock AFM's? You'll need nismos only when passing the 300kw mark, and even then you can get your stock AFM's recalibrated to nismo spec for around $275 each...

cost $550 for the pair, however for that to be required you'd also need at minimum n1 turbos and bigger injectors...

-D

Are you maxxing out your current stock AFM's? You'll need nismos only when passing the 300kw mark, and even then you can get your stock AFM's recalibrated to nismo spec for around $275 each...

cost $550 for the pair, however for that to be required you'd also need at minimum n1 turbos and bigger injectors...

-D

at the moment its standard injectors, with garrett 2860-5's

installing 700cc's when it gets tuned, so i'm sure (it better!!) it will exceed 300kw..

Abe - my driving style suits a ceramic so personally i would buy ceramic for durability factor, look @ how hard drifters punish there clutches, mine doesn't see any of that so should last a while

btw i have xtreme atm but would happily get a NPC twin if i had the money or just a NPC single if i didnt, i did buy a NPC because mine slipped but then it didn't give me any more grief so i sold it to AM performance and he too loves it like OZ pommy

Hey guys,

After finally having run in the engine, i'm looking at getting it tuned

I've got a power fc at home, but been reading a bit about D-jetro recently..

just weighing up my options:

1) Buy Nismo AFM ($800-$900)

Or

2) Sell Power FC, Sell Standard AFM then Buy D-jetro

anyone here run a d-jetro? cons/pros?

You still need your Power FC to run D-jetro (I think)

I have D-jetro on my skyline and its runs awesome track and street 324kw no problems.

Edited by DSTROY
You still need your Power FC to run D-jetro (I think)

I have D-jetro on my skyline and its runs awesome track and street 324kw no problems.

you need a different type of PFC if you're gonna run the Djetro's - the MAP sensors plug directly into them...

regarding the tune, if you get 700cc injectors and get your afm's recalibrated, you'll be seeing 300-350kw with ease (based upon the -5's which are very good turbos)

you may find your afm's leaning the mixture out above 300kw - your tuner will be able to take care of this and inform you when/if you need afm's - I'd say conservatively that you would need them a tad before hitting 300kw.

-D

ugh. being trained to deal roulette as of today. f**k... such an exhausting game too learn, so much shit you gotta commit to memory. im gonna be knackered by the end of the 2 weeks. lol.

Edited by scandyflick
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...