Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

acts of kindness often go unnoticed in the world, especially on SAU. I want to give a massive thanks to SLEEPER85, aka Christian, who borrowed my coilpacks and dropped them off with a bottle of Johnny Walker black! Didn't expect to get anything and didnt ask, so if you ever lend or buy etc. something from him, hes definately a trustworthy forum user :)

Yeah. Few minutes per side for the castor easy and while you have the shock/spring out the camber arms right there.

just remember when you do install the adjustable items, to set them to the same length as the stock items. then you dont need to worry immediately about the alignment (ie it will be alright to drive to have a wheelie done on it)

I need some ideas for suspension/coilovers as my front castor rods need replacing (so I thought I might as well do the whole lot in one go). I have researched JIC FLT-FAS but from what I've heard, they're probably going to be too stiff for normal street driving and some hills work, especially with Adelaide's shocking road quality.

So what I wanted to know is what you guys use and what you'd recommend.

Also wouldn't mind knowing who/what workshops can install them for me.

theyre what... 8kg front 6kg rear? that isnt harsh norm. double digits is getting a bit painful. 8/6 is livable. my cusco's are 8/6, and theyre easily streetable. even with the dampers cranked up. whos told you theyre "probably" going to be too stiff?

from memory, luke (enr034) had 10kg springs on his cuscos, and that was beautiful to drive.

or... just double, triple, quadruple your budget and get pss9's or something similiar.

and just for fun, ask nightcrawler about his 'well thought out' suspension setup on the r34. that was f**king horrible if i may say so myself. bumpiest car ive ever been in.

as for installation... hardest part about fitting coils is setting the height. but thats more fiddling about than anything. actually fitting them though, im sure theres a lot of people on here that would be able to give you a hand. id do it, but you live on the other side of the world.

Edited by scandyflick

I'd have to disagree Dave....8/6 is beautiful......double digits no good for Adelaide.

A slight ripple on a bend with double digits and you come unstuck or a slight ripple at the end of a straight and your brakes lock up your wheels.

If worried about body roll, stiff shocks are not the answer.

Ive got 10f/8r. I was told to get this by Ryan because the Skyline is heavier than a Silvia, 180 etc.

On the topic of suspension, I had a hideous knocking sound in the front left, pulled it apart today and found the upper arm bushes need replacing. Recommendations/experiences on what bushes to use?

theyre what... 8kg front 6kg rear? that isnt harsh norm. double digits is getting a bit painful. 8/6 is livable. my cusco's are 8/6, and theyre easily streetable. even with the dampers cranked up. whos told you theyre "probably" going to be too stiff?

Saw that with general searching and creating a topic:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5186278

Although he did say that it's only not so great if it's a daily driver, which in my case it is not.

as for installation... hardest part about fitting coils is setting the height. but thats more fiddling about than anything. actually fitting them though, im sure theres a lot of people on here that would be able to give you a hand. id do it, but you live on the other side of the world.

Probably won't fit the coilovers for a bit now (might still buy them as they're on special), but at least going to do the front castor rods ASAP. I'll speak to you about it on Wednesday week.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...