Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think its time for some maintenance free batteries for the rig, they're not liking the cold weather (or me LOL)

yeah im getting a new battery when ive got the cash

just tryin to put cash aside for my passport and other associated things for Japan in a few months

Here's what i started with

2yzdf6w.jpg

anyone seen any cars for around 5k give or take a grand if you like, that would be a cool little boonga spec car for a new daily?

i had my heart set on another car but when i checked it out the second time, i noticed a few things i didnt like so im back on the hunt.

thought about building something cheap but i donno

anyone seen any cars for around 5k give or take a grand if you like, that would be a cool little boonga spec car for a new daily?

i had my heart set on another car but when i checked it out the second time, i noticed a few things i didnt like so im back on the hunt.

thought about building something cheap but i donno

couple 4wd sr20 powered gtir pulsars on carsales atm for around that price :blink:

-D

Dohmar, i thought about buying a gtr but i just wont drive it thats why im looking for something cheap as i can only drive 2-3 days a week and soon it will be 1 week of the month :blink:

also, i dont like SR's lol but might have a look at them

Edited by Import S13
Far out Luke!! Nice work. You doing that yourself? I wouldnt have a clue what to do after getting the valley covers off lol.

Yeah got Simon helping me out but it's getting there. Sending the head off to Rhemac tomorrow for a port/polish and getting them to drop the Poncams in while they are at it. Then I'll pick it up, get Simon to bolt the head back on with the new ARP head studs and head gasket, complete with the Tomei oil restrictor. Then it's up to me to bolt on the rest. Oh happy days!!!

Looking at the bores however, all seems well, no pitting on the pistons from detonation or the like so the bottom end seems in pretty good nick thankfully! Just need to get a retune after it's all back together, then back to the track!

Yeah, there are a few hoses I'm looking at that I'll replace while I'm there. The motor is in very good condition really, no pitting on the pistons, no scores in the bore and still has the cross hatching. Looks like it should be sweet for some time to come :blink:

Yeah, there are a few hoses I'm looking at that I'll replace while I'm there. The motor is in very good condition really, no pitting on the pistons, no scores in the bore and still has the cross hatching. Looks like it should be sweet for some time to come :blink:

I should hope so if your tuner did a good job lol

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...