Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Chad fitted those rims today great fitment on the front still have a little room too

Yeah I should start looking for some 18" rims that will fit over brembos that are reasonably light (track use only)

keep your ear to the ground Steve & others please......they'd need to be between 9" & 10"

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

not quite, as i told you the cam timing was due to the TDC marking on the cams being out several degrees

I have read however that some belts do stretch, however this is only during acceleration and only by the very smallest margin - once the belt is running the cams on a standard or decelerating speed they hold their shape - spoke to several mechanics about this and they agreed it was all a theory that whilst true, didn't make any bearing upon the timing of the engine as a whole

-D

Edit - to add to petes post, why bother porting it at all? the gains are negligible and not worth it unless you're chasing that extra 1/10th a second around a track - waste of money on a streetcar but if u got the coin to spend a couple g's to get 5 extra kw then cool

Must disagree with this Ben...I had a supercharged L20 in a stanza at one stage and my mechanic had the exact motor except his had a ported head and it went much much better, there is some gains to be made in the head, like Luke said if its off do it why not

Must disagree with this Ben...I had a supercharged L20 in a stanza at one stage and my mechanic had the exact motor except his had a ported head and it went much much better, there is some gains to be made in the head, like Luke said if its off do it why not

i think it depends on the motor too - some come out of the factory with pretty well designed ports... ill have to think about whether its worth doing - i'd have to see how much porting on its own costs on top of polishing and all the rest - all comes down to how much money is available ;P

-D

as I said to you the other night Abe before I had to rush off, light porting ie. removal of lips and ridges etc are fine to do at home but any major porting should never be attempted without a flow bench and the ability to cc the ports & chambers...also, get the seats machined (or inserts replaced) after, not before cause I've seen too many slips of the stones and burr bits ruin good seats

agree with Pete

you port,polish,cc heads for many reasons besides max KW, like removing any spots that could become "hot spots of carbon build up" to remove a possible weak spot in the casting due to harmonics of the engine hitting resononce from excess casting runners

not to smooth out the intake to a polished level, fluid dynamics is better with the little sand marks in it still. minus burrs of course. on the exhaust it's another story, smooth is best to keep the air from tumbling,creating turbulence plus to remove any cast flaws on the outside for the above reasons, and to make them look nicer when installed.

with care you can do a pretty damn good job at home of MOST of it , without changing the shape of the runners and thin spotting the head coolant jacket area.

clean up coolant paths as well, and of course oil control

check for cracks around the valve seats in the port runners near the valve seats

really if you know anyone in town who has a fluid /grit porting machine like squeezing gritty toothepaste thru the ports , can't remember the name of them,,, lol those work a treat

if this gives you an idea of the cost,, in USD for RB26.... DIY can look pretty damn good if you have any clue how to do it.. which I'm sure a lot of us old farts know..lol

NISSAN RB26 HEADWORK disassemble/ clean/ inspection

port & polish

multi-angle valve job

deshroud valve area in chamber

polish chambers

surface deck

assembly

* cam lash is an additional 250.00 labor *

** bronze guides add 382.00 parts & labor **

1500.00

Yeah I should start looking for some 18" rims that will fit over brembos that are reasonably light (track use only)

keep your ear to the ground Steve & others please......they'd need to be between 9" & 10"

Offer still stands. My works are fairly light, cheapish and dead square inbetween 9 and 10. You can come try them to see how they fit.

with care you can do a pretty damn good job at home of MOST of it , without changing the shape of the runners and thin spotting the head coolant jacket area.

Wouldnt know where to start. I have absolutely zero mechanical skill. Wouldnt want to stuff it up. Rhemac does sound good for the price tho

-D

That "dent" is there for a reason, it's to accomodate the crossover pipe on an RB25, check and you'll see what I mean.

As for the Gates belts, yeah, they whine, comes part and parcel of those belts I'm afraid and it's well documented.

If you're going to get it ported, go to Rhemac, speak to Mark. They are the guys to see, do awesome work, reasonably priced, know their shit and best of all, right here in SA! They did my 26 head, came up sweet!

post-58049-1278747653_thumb.jpg

So that dent is meant to be there?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...