Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how is that even close to Mexican fitment??

Anyway it does look good

Because it has camber and is close to filling his guards perhaps? Doesnt need to be -10 camber or rubbing to be mexican (or mexican-ish if that makes u happy)

But then you have a starlet..

-D

Because it has camber and is close to filling his guards perhaps? Doesnt need to be -10 camber or rubbing to be mexican (or mexican-ish if that makes u happy)

But then you have a starlet..

-D

Mexican is when the wheels are WAY out the guards.

fatwheelsmatscar002wh9.jpg

Because it has camber and is close to filling his guards perhaps? Doesnt need to be -10 camber or rubbing to be mexican (or mexican-ish if that makes u happy)

But then you have a starlet..

-D

Sorry but,

:thumbsup::rofl:

Because it has camber and is close to filling his guards perhaps? Doesnt need to be -10 camber or rubbing to be mexican (or mexican-ish if that makes u happy)

But then you have a starlet..

-D

At least J-Rad knows what mexican is. clearly your fitment knowledge is matched by your knowledge of mechanics repairs and rb26 blocks. well sus this out next track day, everyone knows the Starlets greatest rival is the r32 GTR :D

and a pic of my old s13 to show you what good fitment is on a clean car, not mexican... and weezy.....why dont you drive over here and....oh wait :thumbsup:

post-71986-1278817660_thumb.jpg

yeah i think 10mm would have made it sit nicely but they did the job.

hoping to steve, with all the extra gear thats gone on since then, and some parts im waiting to arrive from Japan id love to get 1:27/28. should be possible but only time will tell.

looking forward to the shiny parts being on by Autosalon, and the rest of the suspension arms and under body bracing by track day

At least J-Rad knows what mexican is. clearly your fitment knowledge is matched by your knowledge of mechanics repairs and rb26 blocks. well sus this out next track day, everyone knows the Starlets greatest rival is the r32 GTR :D

and a pic of my old s13 to show you what good fitment is on a clean car, not mexican... and weezy.....why dont you drive over here and....oh wait :thumbsup:

post-71986-1278817660_thumb.jpg

I could train it, my knowledge of how to get from A to B around Adelaide via public transport is getting pretty good lately

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making Vag coil loom for rb25det, can anyone confirm the wire guage i’m using for power supply in diagram is enough for supply not too small for loom? For earth do i need to follow the same procedure or i can use only 16awg wire for all coil and their connecting wire following to the plug?
    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
×
×
  • Create New...