Jump to content
SAU Community

The Sa Wasteland

heslo

By heslo,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

AndrewJZX100 Mentor

AndrewJZX100

Posted
Posted
If you want to bring it up to my place on Wednesday night i'll do it for you, and i have the right tools LOL.

If you don't have the right shape drifts you will find it very had to get the bearing keepers back in.

Keen to take you up on this also Dale, will PM ya when I acquire funds lol.

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted
Anyone know any good gym equipment whole salers in Adelaide that do decent prices on things like bench, bench bar, adj dumbells, etc etc.

Not interested in a cable system as I prefure free weights, loss of license means no way to get to a gym so I'll bring a gym home LOL

There's some mob on Port Road, Hindmarsh who I can't recall their name. They have decent equipment. Just up from the Entertainment Centre if you're willing to suss it out.

I don't get out to a gym much anymore, so I have my own home gym that gets used more than any gym franchise I once joined. I don't have the full range of equipment like a proper gym ... but at least I don't have to wait to use my home equipment.

:)

Damo_R34 Grand Master

Damo_R34

Posted
Posted
What headgasket should i run on my rb25det? Was quoting a rough estimate on a ACL Metal Head Gasket from turbo tune fr about 250 300, i think it was and also is it worth geting the ARP head bolts?

depends on the application? Making enough power to warrant a steel head hasket and stronger bolts?

heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What headgasket should i run on my rb25det? Was quoting a rough estimate on a ACL Metal Head Gasket from turbo tune fr about 250 300, i think it was and also is it worth geting the ARP head bolts?

Just do it, for a few dollars now, you won't regret it later. I'm doing mine soon, including a port/polish on the head and I'll be going the same route (Metal HG and ARP head studs)

evers Contributor

evers

Posted
Posted
Just do it, for a few dollars now, you won't regret it later. I'm doing mine soon, including a port/polish on the head and I'll be going the same route (Metal HG and ARP head studs)

yeah i have to have my head inspected for cracks and shit, so also thinking a port and polish.

Its actually in a VL for now haha

Weezy Grand Master

Weezy

Posted
Posted
<br />There's some mob on Port Road, Hindmarsh who I can't recall their name. They have decent equipment. Just up from the Entertainment Centre if you're willing to suss it out. <br /><br />I don't get out to a gym much anymore, so I have my own home gym that gets used more than any gym franchise I once joined. I don't have the full range of equipment like a proper gym ... but at least I don't have to wait to use my home equipment. <br /><br /><img src="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="thumbsup.gif" /><br />
<br /><br /><br />

Cheers Rubz, I'll go for a drive tonight and see if I can see what your talking about.

I'm down with you on that I HATE waiting for equipment at the gym. I'm really keen on a bench and free weights, adjustable dumbell and bench bar and you can basically work out every part of your body from that and the fact its free weight the surrounding muscles get a workout to stabalize the weights. Cable sh!t doesn't do it for me.

D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted
What headgasket should i run on my rb25det? Was quoting a rough estimate on a ACL Metal Head Gasket from turbo tune fr about 250 300, i think it was and also is it worth geting the ARP head bolts?
Just do it, for a few dollars now, you won't regret it later. I'm doing mine soon, including a port/polish on the head and I'll be going the same route (Metal HG and ARP head studs)

Don't forget guys that if you if you are going to run metal head gaskets you will need to prep both the head and block mating surfaces to the correct finish. If you don't then there is a fair chance that they will leak.

Now you have to ask yourself how you are going to prep the block with the pistons in place.

Also don't forget that if you are going to change to ARP studs then you will need to torque plate hone the bores as you will be using greater torque settings and the bore will be more deformed. This is the same story for main studs in that you will need to line bore the mains.

So i guess the moral of the story is that if you are going to do a rebuild it a perfect opportunity to change to MLS head gasket and ARP studs, but other than with a rebuild it's not the ideal time to change.

SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
There are many flaws in that argument Steve, but surely even you recognise that 'God' is a word that men created to describe events that they couldn't understand. For the above statement to hold true God would have to be measurable like light and heat.

Also you can watch evolution at work by studying a virus (although there is some debate as to whether viruses can be considered a form of life or something that exists at the edge of life).

Last time I checked Dave, it was the other way around.

I prefer to believe that I was created in the image of God rather than have evolved from a Baboon....although when I wake up some mornings, the mirror tells me a different story :)

Anyone know any good gym equipment whole salers in Adelaide that do decent prices on things like bench, bench bar, adj dumbells, etc etc.

Not interested in a cable system as I prefure free weights, loss of license means no way to get to a gym so I'll bring a gym home LOL

Weezy, the place that Roo is referring to doesn't make good quality commercial stuff....unless times have changed.

I had some commercial grade equipment made up many many years ago at a place further west of the that place (SA Gym Equipment 456 Port Road, Hindmarsh).

I'm not sure if they are still there (probably not) but unlike most places, this mob used cast pulleys (not plastic) with bearings (not nylon bushes) and heavier grade cable. They had a wide range of olympic bars & benches, power racks and smith machines with ball brgs rather than nylon bushes.

They'd custom make anything you wanted.

You're welcome to check out my set up if you ever need to get ideas.

Don't forget guys that if you if you are going to run metal head gaskets you will need to prep both the head and block mating surfaces to the correct finish. If you don't then there is a fair chance that they will leak.

Now you have to ask yourself how you are going to prep the block with the pistons in place.

Also don't forget that if you are going to change to ARP studs then you will need to torque plate hone the bores as you will be using greater torque settings and the bore will be more deformed. This is the same story for main studs in that you will need to line bore the mains.

So i guess the moral of the story is that if you are going to do a rebuild it a perfect opportunity to change to MLS head gasket and ARP studs, but other than with a rebuild it's not the ideal time to change.

Spot on Dale, unlike a composition style head gasket, metal shims are nowhere near as forgiving.

As for torque plates, I've measued bores on some overbored blocks from underneath with an internal micrometer after a head was bolted on to find an oval bore with a discrepancy of as much as .010" (.025mm).....and peeps wonder why some recon engines burn more oil than worn out ones, lol.

Line boring mains isn't always necessary though, but you should still torque the main caps with brgs installed (but crank removed) and check for clearance, end float and brg crush before final assembly.

Weezy Grand Master

Weezy

Posted
Posted (edited)
Weezy, the place that Roo is referring to doesn't make good quality commercial stuff....unless times have changed.

I had some commercial grade equipment made up many many years ago at a place further west of the that place (SA Gym Equipment 456 Port Road, Hindmarsh).

I'm not sure if they are still there (probably not) but unlike most places, this mob used cast pulleys (not plastic) with bearings (not nylon bushes) and heavier grade cable. They had a wide range of olympic bars & benches, power racks and smith machines with ball brgs rather than nylon bushes.

They'd custom make anything you wanted.

You're welcome to check out my set up if you ever need to get ideas.

My only problem is my pocket isn't oozing with disposiable money - I'm sure getting something custom made etc would cost a pretty penny,

Having said that I know this stuff is expensive but you can go over board, so I don't mind forking out coin to a degree lol

PM me some photos of your setup if you don't mind Pete? I'll have to swing passed there and have a look.

Edited by Weezy
SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted
I've only got one a bit weeks left of license left rofl,

So you think SA Gym Equipment are the way to go? or are they the ones that build poor quality?

SA Gym Equipment are the good guys....that's where I got my gear from.

But like I said, I don't think they're there anymore......not sure if they've closed for good or just moved......check the above address first.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...