Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

At a dyno day I noticed that a R33 Series II GTS25t produced a much more linear power curve than my Series I. A performance workshop has told me that this is entirely normal, and it's because the Series II ECU is superior.

Is it reasonably easy to install a Series II ECU into a Series I?

Thanks,

Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29222-series-ii-ecu-into-a-series-i/
Share on other sites

Hrmm. I believe it would be very easy but if you are trying to replace the stock ECU with another stock ECU I have heard that the 1995 model is the pick of the bunch.

I think the money it would take to find a 1995 ECU would be better put into getting a PowerFC.

The ECU itself is very simple to pull out, you can find it behind the passenger side kick panel.

I cannot verify this with any emperical data, it is purely anecdotal, but it has "better" maps.

I believe there were some posts here once with some graphs representing the maps from 95 ECU's and other year stock ECU's. I will use the search button now.

Fair enough i was unaware that the VVT was the same on all RB25DET until much later models. Thus my question has been answered and i will shut up...

Hehe dont shutup, its a good question and I have no proof to back myself up so either of us could be right.

On topic, I agree that as an "upgrade" the 95 ECU is only worthwhile if you can get it for free or swap over your existing 93, 94 ECU. It is well overrated.

i think you guys may be mistaken ... from what i've read and heard i think the reason why 95 is better is that the ecu takes to mods better ... i've heard of disaster stories with mods and early r33's ... in that the power was less with the mods ... but the 95s take it better ... but nowhere as good as a powerfc :) ... thats just what i think .

Thanks for the info everyone. My car is a '95 model but I haven't checked my ECU yet. I do recall the workshop being surprised at the power gain after installing a 3" turbo back, high-flow cat and pod filter - it went from 121kW up to 147kW, however they said the timing had to be pushed back a fair bit as well. (they said that it appeared to have been tuned for the Japanese fuel)

I now have 168kW @10.5psi - nothing wrong with my maximum power, but it would be nice to have the nice linear power delivery that I remember seeing on the Series 2 dyno plot. I have an EBC which has helped to bring on the power earlier (by eliminating the two level boost staging which the factory boost controller produces), but it still doesn't look as linear as I remember the Series 2 being.

Just for kicks, is anyone able to post a Series 2 (in stock form, or close to) dyno plot?

Greg.

i think you guys may be mistaken ... from what i've read and heard i think the reason why 95 is better is that the ecu takes to mods better ... i've heard of disaster stories with mods and early r33's ... in that the power was less with the mods ... but the 95s take it better ... but nowhere as good as a powerfc  :D  ... thats just what i think .

Yes. In 1995 they included magical abilities into the ECU. Each one is factory blessed by a registered fairy and sat upon by a japanese school girl before being excreted into the car at high velocity by a small leprichaun with a big butt.

This makes about as much sense as your post with about as much logic to back it up.

Yes. In 1995 they included magical abilities into the ECU. Each one is factory blessed by a registered fairy and sat upon by a japanese school girl before being excreted into the car at high velocity by a small leprichaun with a big butt.

This makes about as much sense as your post with about as much logic to back it up.

;)

I tested a few different ECUs this week and found none any better than the others but Tomei ECUs have about 10% less power acoss the rev range but no speed cut and a lot higher rev limit.Boost was the same the fuel was good by jap standards but the timing was soft.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...