Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im really confused how skyline prices seem to be all over the place.

Ive seen an R34 GTR in stock trim with 64k sell for $48k and R32's with the works advertised for $65 k. I know all about condition of vehicle and extras etc but like WOW.. What a difference.

Id love to see the prices of skylines remain stable or even increase so write down what you paid or sold your skyline for in 2003. So some suckers arent selling theres too cheap or worse advertising them at such a high price that people think Skylines are unsaleable. (thats what scared me off a skyline for a few years, I thought "if I buy one, Id never be able to resell it" as some guys advertised theres for 4-6 months every fortnight in the Trading Post)

Ill start,

95 GTR Blue Near Stock 66k $32,250 Sydney August 2003 (Private sale)

(had 3' exhaust) 1st Mod Ohlins height and damper adjustable coil overs WOW

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

93 R33 GTS25T - stock except for 18" rims, additional BOV and 3 and half inch exhaust - $20000 - Canberra

-only probs so far have been battery (understandable - car hadn't been driven much for last 3 - 4 months, and air-con compressor doesn't work so have to find replacement....

:headspin: :headspin:

I have been doing a little research lately to land a 96/97 R33 GTR V-spec, Gr 4-5, interior grade A or B, complied, all taxes/duties, rego, tyres blah blah, seems to be around $45-50k give or take a few.

EDIT: price Damn RAWS!

there is lots of good deals out there , like i see people buying r33 gtst's for lets say 26 grand, and you see another one getting it for lets say 12-15 and there laughing hhehe. but there would be a "reason" claimed by the other person saying theres is better bla bla bla . but really its the same thing.

im planning to get a cheap 32 gtst for a thrasher . anyone know where to get one . about 10 - 13 grand is what ill spend. RB20DET i prefer.

94 R33 GTST, pod and 17" Advanti racing wheels, Sep 03

$17500, 65000km (I think) 2nd aussie owner. When I was looking average R33 price seemed to be about $21-22000. There were a couple around 15500 and 13800, but I didn't even go look at them - just thought they must have been crap. Who knows if they actually were.

there is lots of good deals out there , like i see people buying r33 gtst's for lets say 26 grand, and you see another one getting it for lets say 12-15 and there laughing hhehe. but there would be a "reason" claimed by the other person saying theres is better bla bla bla . but really its the same thing.  

im planning to get a cheap 32 gtst for a thrasher . anyone know where to get one . about 10 - 13 grand is what ill spend. RB20DET i prefer.

MINES_DATSUN i do not agree with what you are saying, yes there are many good deals out there. A value of a car may be the SAME to you, but may be different to another person. Yes there are many skylines out there for 12-15k and then there are those people that have bought it for that price may believe that they have got a bargain, and some others like me who may have paid 25k for my car. When i bought my S2 96 skylines, i had many different types of skylines to choice from. Buyin from dealer, private and importing one myself. But the only reason i bought mine for $25k from a dealer was solely because i wanted to be the first australia driver and because of the kms it had on the clock. Ok you may think the clock could be rigged and yes i agree with that too, because there is that possibility, but the condition of my car and because it had a warranty with it was wat made up my mind. At the time when i bought it i found an exact model, colour skyline as mine but had 50k more kms on the clock and it was a private sale, it was selling for 20,500. I considered that with my parents but we opted to go for the 25k because of the reasons above + many more. So although many of you may think i paid too much for my S2 skyline, i bought it for that price for my own personal reasons, but when you buy a car, the price is not the only think that is considered, there are many other factors included.

So dont go saying its the same thing coz its not. Yes it may be the same model of car, but a car is like a person and that it is all different. Each has its own pros and cons. What is a bargain t you may not be for me and wats a bargain to me will not be to someone else. Oh of coz this only applies to 2nd hand cars not brand new cars where we all pay the same amount of money.

Sorry for the long post but i felt i needed to get my point across.

Cheers

Guilty

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...