Howto: Install Extended Wheel Studs

[LSX-438]

At a recent track day, whilst swapping wheels, i was using some cheaper wheel nuts which i think contributed to stripping some stud threads. In addition, running a new set of rims with slicks (and a spacer) there was a general requirement to install some new and longer wheel studs. This thread will take you through the basic steps to replace wheel studs on an R35 GTR.

Step 1. Jack car and remove wheel, support car with safety stands as appropriate. You can see the stripped stud here:

Step 2: Remove disc rotor. Unfasten the three bolts highlighted below

Step 4. Pry caliper off rotor, and whilst supporting caliper, have the rotor removed and set aside. Use the two larger bolts to re-attach caliper temporarily (no need to do up tight)

At this point it is worth mentioning that stocker sized studs can be replaced without removing the hub. Simply smash them out with a hammer and maneuver each stud out (you will need to rotate hub to appropriate point for clearance). However the whole point of this how-to is to show how longer studs can be installed... so off we go...

Step 5: Remove Central Hub Bolt. First you'll need to remove the lock pin; use a pair of pliers to straighten the pin and tap out. You'll need a 32mm or 1 1/4" socket to unfasten the hub bolt itself. Surprisingly, one of my hub bolts was only finger tight!

Step 6: Remove the 4 hub securing bolts (highlighted). You'll need some extension bars as it's quite tricky to get behind there. And the longer the lever the better.

Step 7: Remove speed sensor wire from hub.. towards the rear side of the hub itself you will see a wire installed which plugs into the hub. This should be removed before pulling the hub off itself, apparently it's an expensive part and will render the car practically disabled if you damage it. Remove it!

Step 8: Pull Hub Off! OK right now you're probabky thinking, i can't believe i am pulling apart my $150k car... am i nuts!! .. but trust me it's easy. Before you pull the hub off, mark which side of the hub is up (it makes a difference) as it will make reinstallation of the hub stress free, and orientation of the hub is important for reinstallation of the speed sensor, trust me...

Hub and dust sheild removed..

Step 9: Remove old studs. You're going to need to knock the studs out with a hammer. We just placed a bit of soft wood on the ground, placed the hub assembly on it, and bashed the studs out. Now, i guess it's possible to bash the studs out BEFORE you remove the hub from the car itself. I don't really know what is the better option.. I tend to think off the car is better, on the soft wood, dapening the stress a tad.

Here is a pic showing the new and the old studs on the hub:

Step 10: Reinstall the hub (and dust shield). Install the four hub bolts, and speed sensor wire too. Fasten up with main hub bolt and install the retaining pin. Install disc rotor.

(no comments on the disc crazing pls, fully aware thankyou..)

Step 11: We'll need to go through a process to bind the studs onto the hub. There are probably many ways to go about this. This is what we did (not necessarily the most correct ). Firstly, use your wheel nuts (lug nuts to you yanks) to initially tighten in succession... Have a friend hold the disc as you progressively tighten untill the disc slips through the hands. Repeat until it's too uncomfortable for your friend to hold the disc steady. Finally install the wheel and do the same. This process may be different if you have access to high torque power tools. Use your best judgement.

Pic of the wheel installed with extended wheel studs installed:

SPECIAL THANKS:

Special thanks to my good friend Mitta E for all his help during the installation, really appreciate this man!!, i couldnt have done it without you. Also, special thanks to John from vSport for sourcing the studs and nuts, and shipping them so fast as usual. Also Bosnjack Engineering for manufacturing the studs, cheers guys!

Edited October 22, 2009 by LSX-438

[Beer Baron]

great topic, lovely write up and good clear pics.

yes cheap nuts can definitely contribute to farking your studs. it seems not everyone has the exact same idea of an M12X1.25mm suitable nut and you can visibly see sometimes differences in how deep the thread is cut etc between different brands.

a good set of studs and nuts is a good investment.

[Marlin]

I concurr, excellent writeup that probably even the septics can understand

[Neels]

Hi Duncan, great job and thanks for the info.

I have recently ordered Enkei 18 x 10 wheels and Nitto NT01 275/40 tyres from the US. I am still waiting for them.

Can I use my OEM studs? Are they the same taper as required for an Enkei wheel?

Thank you.

[LSX-438]

stocker studs will work fine. although i preferred the longer ones (i think made up by bosnjack engineering). btw, the fronts (or rear) oem studs are slightly longer that the other end, so if buying some from nissan get the longer variety (if replacing the entire set).

btw2, if fitting (much) longer studs, you will have to take the hubs off to fit them. whereas stocker studs can be replaced without removing the hubs.

Edited April 23, 2013 by LSX-438