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Car Is Over Heating "r33 Gtst"

Stealthynsa

By Stealthynsa,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

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The motor is fine now, but after I went for a drive testing it out I looked at the engine temp and it can't get any hotter!

The oil and water and full/perfect level. Any ideas on what it could be?

Is there anything I can do/try to fix or find the problem,

this motor was from a jap wrecker freshly put in,

thans

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Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

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did you check and change thermostat, waterpump etc, before putting motor back in? my s2 rb25det was overheating aswell when i put it from engine importers, had a cracked thermostat.

My 2 cents anyway

I'll check the thermostat when I get home, if it's broken can I drive without 1 until tomorrow when I can get a new 1?

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
I'll check the thermostat when I get home, if it's broken can I drive without 1 until tomorrow when I can get a new 1?

You can take it out altogether - it will just take the motor a lot longer to warm up so no boosting until you've been driving for say 10 minutes.

You can also try putting the heater on full to keep it cooler.

As ali-t mentioned - did you open the coolant bleeder at the top of the motor to let the air out?

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

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You can take it out altogether - it will just take the motor a lot longer to warm up so no boosting until you've been driving for say 10 minutes.

You can also try putting the heater on full to keep it cooler.

As ali-t mentioned - did you open the coolant bleeder at the top of the motor to let the air out?

All I done was had the car running whilest filling the radiator and it won't let more in, where is this bleeder ontop of the motor?

As for background of motor, s1 rb25det put into n/a r33 "changed full wiring loom"

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted
You can take it out altogether - it will just take the motor a lot longer to warm up so no boosting until you've been driving for say 10 minutes.

You can also try putting the heater on full to keep it cooler.

As ali-t mentioned - did you open the coolant bleeder at the top of the motor to let the air out?

If the 25 is like the 30 thermo, it is a bad idea to run without one...

The RB30 runs a strange bypass setup when cold. From waht I've been told, no thermo stat can cause hot spotting in the motor...

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
All I done was had the car running whilest filling the radiator and it won't let more in, where is this bleeder ontop of the motor?

Your looking for a bolt with a 10mm head on the cylinder head. Its probably got a sticker near it. On RB26 its quite close to the fuel pressure reg.

This is RB26 but its the nut above the gold sticker

med_gallery_15274_3433_34451.jpg

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

Posted
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Your looking for a bolt with a 10mm head on the cylinder head. Its probably got a sticker near it. On RB26 its quite close to the fuel pressure reg.

This is RB26 but its the nut above the gold sticker

med_gallery_15274_3433_34451.jpg

Ok I just got home I'll check it out now, I forgot to mention my thermo fan doesn't turn on... Any reasons why?

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

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i was just bleeding the radiator with the bleeder valve on top of the plenum, and yes there is air coming out with some fluid bubbling out every now and then.

"but" just on idle the stupid thing has gone from half way heat to "HOT" while i was trying to bleed for like 5 - 10minutes... do u guys still think its cause there is air in the radiator?

while its running i plug up the bleeder and check the radiator and the radiator is still full :P

oh and i had the car air running on heat while i was doing this.

should i continue to bleed it while its almost a hot peak? or is there something else i should be trying?!?!

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

Posted
  • Author
Posted
did you check and change thermostat, waterpump etc, before putting motor back in? my s2 rb25det was overheating aswell when i put it from engine importers, had a cracked thermostat.

My 2 cents anyway

how do i check the water pump? is the gtst water pump different to the non turbo water pump? if not i could just swap it i guess...

i dont know what it looks like either.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted
i was just bleeding the radiator with the bleeder valve on top of the plenum, and yes there is air coming out with some fluid bubbling out every now and then.

"but" just on idle the stupid thing has gone from half way heat to "HOT" while i was trying to bleed for like 5 - 10minutes... do u guys still think its cause there is air in the radiator?

while its running i plug up the bleeder and check the radiator and the radiator is still full :P

oh and i had the car air running on heat while i was doing this.

should i continue to bleed it while its almost a hot peak? or is there something else i should be trying?!?!

Have you removed the thermostat? If not, do that, re-bleed and see how it goes. Water pumps wear out more than break so if its not leaking or making noise it unlikely to be the problem.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Are you sure the sensor for the gauge is working ok?

If the thermo fan isn't coming on but the gauge says the engine is boiling, then either the gauge is wrong, or the thermostat switch for the thermo fan is cactus.

Does it feel like the engine is extremely hot (if you were bleeding a boiling engine, I'm pretty sure it would be obvious)?

MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Have you got your old motor?

If you do, grab the temperature sensors from it, and put them in the car instead of the ones that came with the motor.

I've been caught out like this before with the only issue being a sensor... I chased it around for ages checking water pumps, coolant gallerys, new radiators etc etc... Turned out to be the sensors...

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

Posted
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Posted
Have you removed the thermostat? If not, do that, re-bleed and see how it goes. Water pumps wear out more than break so if its not leaking or making noise it unlikely to be the problem.

Thermostat is out and it's running better whilest driving/boosting it stays around 4-5 mil from the hot sign, when on idle it gets hotter cause thermo fan doesn't turn on for some reason...

I've decided the n/a radiator needs to go!

I'm in nsw and I want a decent yet cheap radiator upgrade for a r33 gtst, can someone suggest a place so I can get it tomorrow!

Possibly leave me a brand name and a rough price, thanks

also where us the closest wire to hardwire my thermofan?

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Are you sure the sensor for the gauge is working ok?

If the thermo fan isn't coming on but the gauge says the engine is boiling, then either the gauge is wrong, or the thermostat switch for the thermo fan is cactus.

Does it feel like the engine is extremely hot (if you were bleeding a boiling engine, I'm pretty sure it would be obvious)?

Yeah it's boiling hot alright, where is the thermofan sensor? I don't think the fan has ever kicked in... I was just gonna hardwire it somewhere.

The non turbo radiator must he crap for cooling aswell so I wanna find a cheap yet decent radiator to buy tomorrow! Any suggestions?

Stealthynsa Proficient

Stealthynsa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

has anybody wired the thermo fan to constaly run?

cause mine doesnt work at all... could someone please tell me how to and post a picture guide on

how to wire a thermofan to constantly run as my car is overheating to much on idle.

cheers

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

You fitted a thermo fan that never turns on?!?! FFS!

Having a thermo on constantly basically defeats the purpose of having a thermo fan (it's called a thermostatic fan because it is controlled by a thermostatic switch). What you gain by removing the load of an engine-driven fan is replaced by the additional load of driving the alternator to supply enough current to drive the thermo fan.

Just put the factory fan back on.

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