Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, just want a bit of advice here, my car is currently gettin worked on at the moment and am hoping to hit arounnd the 330rwkw mark on 19psi, ive done every mod i thinks possible. How long do u do u guys think the internals and rods will last. Or should i forge the internals and all that sort of stuff as well or just wait till the engine goes then do it when its time to rebuild.

bit of background of the mods.

Vipec computer

Garrett gt3082r

cams

plenum

550 cc injectors

front mount

brass button clutch

walbro fuel pump

greddy boost controller

and the obvious external wastegate etc etc

any advice or previous experiences guys would be awesome

cheerrss

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293418-330rwkw-r33/
Share on other sites

hey guys, just want a bit of advice here, my car is currently gettin worked on at the moment and am hoping to hit arounnd the 330rwkw mark on 19psi, ive done every mod i thinks possible. How long do u do u guys think the internals and rods will last. Or should i forge the internals and all that sort of stuff as well or just wait till the engine goes then do it when its time to rebuild.

bit of background of the mods.

Vipec computer

Garrett gt3082r

cams

plenum

550 cc injectors

front mount

brass button clutch

walbro fuel pump

greddy boost controller

and the obvious external wastegate etc etc

any advice or previous experiences guys would be awesome

cheerrss

you will be very lucky if u pulled 330rwkw from this combination on a standard engine

i use to run a gt3040 (gt3082r) and i only jut managed 329rwkw at 19psi on my old turbo setup but that was on a forged engine

plus your injectors will nearly be at 100% duty

if i was u id maybe put some camgears and cams in as the turbo you are running will be laggy with the .82 exhaust housing

what exhaust manifold are u using???

you should tune it to around 250--270rwkw max on a standard engine to be safe and watch your knock levels other wise you might blow a piston ringland or put the rod through the block

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293418-330rwkw-r33/#findComment-4898968
Share on other sites

It'll be fine. It's all about the tune and how you drive it. Dont bash it off the limiter every day, Dont over rev it if you can help it and smooth transitions between gear changes helps everything. A few less psi wont kill you to loose so maybe run 17psi, you might loose 30 kilowatts but just for peace of mind. But apart from that, Like previously mentioned...you'll get defected before it blows up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293418-330rwkw-r33/#findComment-4899122
Share on other sites

^^ Yeah all comes down to the tune. Forged internals wont make you anymore power, They just make it reliable.

Much over 400kw with a standard bottom end and you're asking for trouble.

Just to make it safer and to keep it from pinging i would be looking into water/meth injection. Not only will it make it alot safer but you can also add alot more timing into it aswell as a few more psi and make more power. Last time i checked the kits where around $900 from rice racing.

Darren (SLO-030) uses that kit and went from 370kw to 450kw with just more timing and 3 more psi on pump fuel.

Bit of info :

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=550320

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293418-330rwkw-r33/#findComment-4899856
Share on other sites

Get the second map on the vipec tuned for e85, keep the other as a safe 98 octane tune in case you have to buy fuel between e85 retailers. Make sure it is a slightly rich tune on the 98 premium so that if you run a bit of a mix you won't be leaning out due to e85 being less dense.

I want to do this to the stag in the future, just with an emanage instead.

Edited by Race__24
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293418-330rwkw-r33/#findComment-4901568
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

I may have been told bullshit. But my mate was working on a 33 with 385kw at the rears. was running 25psi, threw 2 conrods through the block the size of a fist, tore the engine mounts aswell.

Cant remember details, but was fairly hardcore., high mount, ase plenum, EMS stinger, coils, Injectors and the shit. Internally stock apart from cams.

Edited by Silo_Wagon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293418-330rwkw-r33/#findComment-4955743
Share on other sites

shaun at boostworx did it bro, ended up getting a howtech(dono the spelling) computer instead of vipec. Apparently the engine should be ok for a while,

just cruise on 12psi and only goto 18psi here and there, but it gets addictive. lol, heres a pic

post-32710-1259146695_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293418-330rwkw-r33/#findComment-4955832
Share on other sites

shaun at boostworx did it bro, . Apparently the engine should be ok for a while,

ahahah thats what he said to me then 2 months later they leaned it out on their dyno and blew my engine, bye bye piston 6 ringland :)

just keep an eye on ya engine warning light since u cant see a knock reading

can you post a dyno sheet and air/fuel ratios??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293418-330rwkw-r33/#findComment-4955922
Share on other sites

ahahah thats what he said to me then 2 months later they leaned it out on their dyno and blew my engine, bye bye piston 6 ringland ;)

just keep an eye on ya engine warning light since u cant see a knock reading

can you post a dyno sheet and air/fuel ratios??

hey bro, heres the dyno sheet

post-32710-1259210589_thumb.jpg

Edited by MistR33td
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293418-330rwkw-r33/#findComment-4957084
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...