Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i was thinking of a vent in the bonnet above the pod filter as well, however the main problem then is water getting into ur engine bay and if driving ur induction system! would need to have like a drainage system or like a vent cover so in the rain u can drive, but no cold air :cheers:

I wouldnt know which one is the loudest, but heres a comparison somebody did between different filters. Apexi was the best :D

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

I have an Apexi pod, but I found that unless you're using a cold air partition, the HKS gives you noticably more power. I *think* this is because it faces more to the front and has more of a face to the incoming cold air, whereas the Apexi pod can suck in hot air from the sides. But when I put the box in, the power was pretty much the same for both (I couldn't tell the difference anyway).

If you didn't want a cold air box/partition, I would probably prefer the HKS filter or another one of a similar shape. Although then you have to worry about the particle filtration, which was my main concern when choosing the Apexi pod.

  • 1 month later...

I've got a Blitz SUS LM on mine, and yup, its friggin loud. You can hear it sucking, even when slightly cruising. With the window down its probably the loudest thing you can hear in my car! Its kinda cool, and annoying at others - but its staying on.

So if a cop pulls any of you over, and pops your bonnet, and sees a pod/s they will defect you right?

I had a large K&N pod on my old car (Alfa Romeo) but it was on the end of a pipe which I had custom made to sit down very low away from the engine and close (but not too close so that it sucked up water from puddles in the rain) to the road. And the cops would never have found it because you couldn't see it but damn could you hear it!!!!!!

I want to install duel pods in my RB26 but I don't want to get defected!

Guest RedLineGTR

Best Bet are get a photo of it possbily and post it in the for sale section (parts) and most likly some one will buy it u just have to figure out a price to sell it...how much u ask?? i have no idea. I have found that people have still been buying them, so all i can say good luck.

Cheers Rob

Guest RedLineGTR

Also those tests are with a high concentration of particles and toxins, and it never gets that bad on "normal" roads, but to stop the really microscopic particles u can’t use foam at all. Best bets are for a Mesh type filter wet or dry, out of the tests I would go for the apexi one but i personally want one that i can clean nothing is clear forever and will eventually restrict flow, I myself have a k&n filter with the light oil it has and the Mesh type filter I’m pretty sure its doing a good job (I don’t believe 100% those test u don’t know if they are new etc). My 2 Cents.

For those running the Blitz Sus LM are there any temp problems and how often do you clean them, if at all?

I'm thinking of buying one, but i can't find the Stainlees steel one. Only the..er..non stainles steel. hehe

The review, earlier, shows that it does not filter that well. Has anybody had any filtration problems while using a Pod?

I currently have a K&N panel filter in my standard air box. You can hear the induction noise from the inside and a slight BOV sound, but it's not that loud. If the radio is on all you hear is the exchaust......and the radio of course!! :wassup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
    • I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
×
×
  • Create New...