Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I've noticed my Rb26 (R33) slowly looses oil over a period of time.

I've done two oil changes so far since i've had the engine and had to top up about 3/4 to 1 quart over the 4000km i run the oil for.

The first time i used Redline 20w50 and thought it was just probably the oil so i tried Schaeffer 20w50 but same result.

There are no oil leaks anywhere and when i opened the catch can after the two the oil changes there was only just enough oil just to cover the bottom(greddy)..... just a few drops really.

Compression reads: 172 / 175 / 173 / 170 / 156 / 160.

There is no smoke on start up, and my friend who was driving behind me says there is only some black smoke for a few seconds when i floor it.... no blue smoke.

It is running really rich because it has a little soot on the back and pops every now and again when a let go.... stock ecu running 12psi

Other wise car pulls really good

Where does my oil go???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293879-disappearing-oil/
Share on other sites

Check your cam cover gaskets. Notorious as shit on any skyline of its age. I'm forever replacing them for customers that lose around half-1 litre of oil every 5000km.

And it won't be your oil control rings, all they do is drag oil up the bore. Even if you were referring to the second ring it wouldn't be that unless it was blowing smoke, which he said it wasn't.

The only reason why I'm repeating it is because when you are losing oil...and you know you have a leak somewhere....no matter how big or small, fix the leak first, then ask the question.

It's common sense. It's also at the top of the engine so it's the best place to start considering the oil will move in a downward direction.

Here's a picture of a GTST with a normal leak from the rocker cover gasket.

post-10554-1257283807_thumb.jpg

It was also leaking from the front corners behind the top timing cover backing plate and leaking from the half moon seals at the back and leaking down on top of the gearbox.

This one appeared not too bad from the top. It wasn't until looking from underneath that you will see where it is coming from.

My 32GTR is daily driven about 110km each day of the week and I don't lose oil like you are stating. I had the rocker cover leak at one point but just tighten the screws up regularly now and don't see the issue anymore. But it is apparently a common thing for the rocker covers to work lose.

Nissan says the standard is 170 psi with a variance of 14 psi across cyl so the lower numbers (156,160) is what i would actually expect for an engine with this kind of mileage .....water pump,timing belt,tensioner etc. has already been changed in Jap.

Its the higher numbers that has me baffled bc i tested a next 26 with a genuine 25k on the clock using the same gauge and all cyl were between 162-170

Nissan says the standard is 170 psi with a variance of 14 psi across cyl so the lower numbers (156,160) is what i would actually expect for an engine with this kind of mileage .....water pump,timing belt,tensioner etc. has already been changed in Jap.

Its the higher numbers that has me baffled bc i tested a next 26 with a genuine 25k on the clock using the same gauge and all cyl were between 162-170

Did you have a jump pack connected, throttle fully open and all spark plugs out for the compression test?

If not, then the results don't mean anything as they will most likely be a few psi off...usually under

I have never had to top up oil on any of my RB26s and i've had a fair few, from stock 1989 engine to brand new N1 Nur motors to built motors and none of them used oil between changes. granted my changes tend to be fairly quick as most got some track use and get fresh oil then, but they always gave back out pretty much what was put in. there is definitely something wrong happening. in normally healthy state RB26s do not burn or loose oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...