Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Evening all,

I am looking at purchasing a R34GT-T, 4 door sedan, tiptronic.

Problem is, its in Melbourne (I have actually found one than im very keen on)

Can anyone please add comments or anything that will help me look for problem areas or issues? And is ther anyone in ACT that would be willing to take me for a spin in theirs (to see if i actually fit?)

Main reasons for purchasing an R34:

Nice for long drives, good looks, good power, not 20 years old like R32's, and not as common as R33's

Comparable economy to commhoore or falcon,

The Rb25det NEO is a much better platform to mod from

Im not going to build a balls out track waepon, just a nice daily with some good takeoff ability and overtaking on the way to syd etc

Please any posts are welcome!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293960-help-r34-owners-please-read/
Share on other sites

I have a 34 coupe, man, VERY VERY happy with might i add.

It's currently cluchless atm, well not quite, but its slipping, so no drivey for me. so i can't take ya for a spin. not till next week or the week after...

I'm not much of a fan of the whole 4 door Tiptronic thing though, but each to their own. :thumbsup:

but yes It's a very nice car for long drives.

as for any issues before byring the car, just the usual stuff... theres a thread on here somewhere (not in the act section) that has many a comment on "what to look for when buying a skyline" pretty sure thats the thread name.

4 door mainly cos of the kids factor in the next year or 3

Tiptro cos my clutch foot (left) is pretty much shattered from field exercise with the army at the start of the year! I can drive manual, but no longer than an hour , and after that it just swells up for the next 24 hrs or so.... farkin shithouse! It looks to be permanent so tiptro it is for the meantime.

I drove a 2000 mod stagea (tiptro) and didnt mind it at all, stagea was friggin heavy though! Like a boat.

Its either an R34 or a GT Subaru Forester...

I luuurve my R34... so much nicer and newer than my R33 :thumbsup:

Can't tell you any issues cos it's been perfect, just look for a good clean one I guess!

happy to let you drive it, but it is a manual coupe so a bit different to what you're looking at buying. But seeing if you fit should be the same? I'm away for 2 weeks (leaving tomorrow) so it would have to be after that :P

long drive is good. the only thing that trips me around is the unavailability of cruise control.

imagine putting ur right foot for 8 hrs of canberra - melbourne journey. been there done that.

so install aftermarket cruise control if you want it that badly.

I could have done with one when I drove to QLD, and also SA. Long straights, speed camera's and cops.

Been thinking about it for a while, but usually end up spending my $$$ on GFB's.

One day............one day..........

In no particular order. Some of my firsthand experiences and issues I've consistently read about over the years (I've had mine for 5 years now):

The tiptronic can be very slow on the upshift, even when you are intimately familiar with when it will and won't upshift smoothly. The downshift is nearly always very fast.

The tiptronic struggles with anything upwards of ~250kw atw without strengthening.

The coils will need replacing at some stage, but that's a given on most skylines.

Your choice of aftermarket ECUs is limited because many don't handle the tiptronic properly.

The insurance is a bitch even when you're bordering 30.

You will go through front brake pads like no tomorrow.

Check the middle brake light for signs of rust as water can and does get in there.

In no particular order. Some of my firsthand experiences and issues I've consistently read about over the years (I've had mine for 5 years now):

The tiptronic can be very slow on the upshift, even when you are intimately familiar with when it will and won't upshift smoothly. The downshift is nearly always very fast.

The tiptronic struggles with anything upwards of ~250kw atw without strengthening.

The coils will need replacing at some stage, but that's a given on most skylines.

Your choice of aftermarket ECUs is limited because many don't handle the tiptronic properly.

The insurance is a bitch even when you're bordering 30.

You will go through front brake pads like no tomorrow.

Check the middle brake light for signs of rust as water can and does get in there.

^^^

All sound advice! (with the exception of the brake pads comment, I've never noticed bad wear even with trackwork). Downshift slows down a little when the box heats up (think 40 degree day at QLD raceway... 51deg track temp!) but this isn't that common. Upshift isn't lightning but it's not bad, and a shift kit from MV Automatics will make your tiptronic day...

I've had 3 R34's, a tip coupe, a tip sedan and a manual coupe. All great cars to drive and own, highly recommend them for the sheer satisfaction of ownership :happy:

Thanks heaps for the comments ppl!

I will hopefully see a few at tomorrows ICU Cruise...

http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=55291692108&ref=ts

Shannons sad $1544 per year full comp value up to $15000, 26 y.o. no accident or all the good stuff

compared to an XR6, $900

get a stagea!!! i love mine... she's a little heavy on fuel around town but it still hasn't been tuned since it came from japan... but a power fc will fix that very soon (mine's a manual)

anyway, get one. they're getting nice and cheap now for autos and a 2wd one will be a little cheaper again. even the m35s are getting cheap, you can pick one up from around $20k, vq25 turbo......

a mate of mine got a GT-T 2 door, loves it but admitted to me the other day that it has no space for anything... unlike my car :P if the boot space in a 4 door is anywhere near similar to the 2 door, i wouldn't recommend it for travelling...

D.

Hey thanks for the comments

at the minute my total monthly expenses on this will be over budget, so i have to keep an eye out for something aussie delivered like a SV6, VRX, or XR6, also in the package at work they dont allow imports :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...