Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I've broken the stud that holds my timing belt tensioner in place and haven't been able to budge it. I've drilled through the centre of it and tried using an easy out but it won't move one bit. I'm going to try hitting it with some of that freezing spray tomorrow to see if that helps crack it, or maybe heat the block around it with once of those pencil blow torches but i'm not sure how successful this will be.

I've thought about welding something in there but there is very little surface area to get a decent weld. It doesn't help that the stud has snapped just below flush with the block either.

So has anyone got any ideas or suggestions that might help me get this stud out?

Cheers

Simon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294006-another-broken-stud-thread/
Share on other sites

your in Dubbo so no thread doctor or spark erosion I'm guessing?

Try slowly increasing your drill size and using a dremel with a tungsten bit on it. Once you have it thinned right out, use a tap and re tap the hole [lots of swearing, beer and patience].

You need to get it thin so you can follow the same thread in when you re tap.

Yeah no thread doctor or anyone out here unfortunately! I miss canberra sometimes :(

With the dremel idea... won't that pose a significant risk of damaging the thread in the block? Something i'd rather avoid if possible. But i guess as a last resort I can give it a try.

I got a suggestion in a pm to try a proper stud remover instead of an ezi out so i might give that a crack if i can find one in my lunch break.

Yeah no thread doctor or anyone out here unfortunately! I miss canberra sometimes :D

With the dremel idea... won't that pose a significant risk of damaging the thread in the block? Something i'd rather avoid if possible. But i guess as a last resort I can give it a try.

I got a suggestion in a pm to try a proper stud remover instead of an ezi out so i might give that a crack if i can find one in my lunch break.

If its really stuck, be very careful not to snap an ezi out or hammer in stud remover off in your drilled hole cos then your up the creek........no drill or dremel will touch them [they will slowly and using heaps of them, but you'll end up gouging the thread and parent material because it is way softer than the ezi out metal].

I would use a bit of heat around the bolt hole. Oxy torch on low pressure would get better heat into it. I dont think a pencil blow torch will do the job but see how you go.

Otherwise from that do what the guy said above and step up your drill sizes and then re tap it. Either should work.

Find a nut suitable for a slightly smaller bolt than the broken bolt, weld it to the broken bolt (through the hole in the nut).

When its cold, undo with a socket.

I have never had method fail.

I thought he couldn't do this method, not enough exposed stud left, but I agree is works very good if you can do it.

only way you are going to get that out is what trident said and drill it out slowly and use a dremel to finish it off them tap it back out, doesnt matter if you slightly touch the thread with the dremel as there will be enough meat for the new bolt. a ezy out will bight into the original thread and you will snap it. heating it up is risky as it can harden the leftover bolt and when it does'nt work, will be a prick to drill. being a mechanical fitter of some 21 years i have seen my fair share of snapped bolts and that is the best way to do it.

Try a centre punch on the outer edge of the stud and rotate it. Don't use heat as you can damage/distort the surface of the block and it has to remain perfectly level. Also, don't use an easy out that is too big for the hole you have drilled as it will actually push the threads out against the block threads tighter.

Try the welding method mentioned above first. If it's bottomed out though you won't get the thing out, it'll tear the weld.

Just dont snap off an easy out in there or you are stuck with the erosion method.

If that fails then drill it out and helicoil it.

Edited by badhairdave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...