Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

You are playing with death turning up with no CATS fitted especially with the current IM240 Issue, they will ask for a 5 Gas that is for sure. R33's from memory pass compliance with a 91006 SUPER CAT fitted so if your exhaust has a De Cat pipe fitted you can buy them Pre Welded with flanges so if an interstate car fit a new one.

Just seen the image of your CAT and it looks fairly new so might be ok unless it is a shitty cheap arse Chinese one.

You don't want to loud an exhaust either as they have dB meters at the pits.

For electrical check everything down to the licence plate lights and look for a Centre High Mount Stop Light on your car since you don't have one on the wing.

If the suspension is too hard and no play they wont pass it, 100 is the limit with 4 people in the car so even at 120 they can fail it if they want which I have seen.

Check the tyre placard in the drivers door because if not for those rims it will be gauged of R33 stockies, rolling diameter is fine but the width no chance. Front and rears need to be the same width, you might get away with that only if other faults aren't picked up on.

DPI links below give a bit of an idea but go once and once only.

Alternative road wheels

Modified exhaust systems

When is approval required ?

lic_car.jpg

Cheers for that and thanks to everyone for the quick help/advice :(

I think i will take it now tomoz after all and see what they say as for the tyres

They are the Tommy Kaira split rims

fronts are 235/35/18

rears are 265/35/18

It also has a 3rd brake light in the rear window

so u are trying to rego it for wa? yellow sticker? or?

why did u buy from eastern states without checkin into this first..

suspension has to be stock, everything has to be stock, they often ask for other stupid crap ie eye level height break light - the one on ur spoiler has to work-if u take spoiler off meant to buy one of those gey ones from autoone etc etc

once again 'STOCK' ie NO mods

Edited by Char

I did look into it i knew it would have to go over the pits to be registered here in WA, but with it being what it is ie not a stock skyline from the factory what can you do???

Its like having say a escort rs 2000 and an escort rs cosworth isnt it, same car but both differant in many ways......

Yeah i should get the mrs to take it but she cant drive :D

Its going in at 2pm this arvo so fingers crossed.......

I have been over with no cat on a gtr once they never cared but obviously told me to get one put in. Also never been told to have a permit for a front mount and have been over in about 3 cars that have had them and none of then even had mesh over. They might care if your wheel widths if they are staggered. If your exhaust is to loud you can just put a silencer in there, as i did after they made me to a DB test ( i got 96db at 3000rpm). You should be fine it is sooooo easy everyone just makes it out to be a hell hole were they will throw you in prison / fine your ass off if you dont pass or something. Usually it takes two shots, the first time over they will tell you what they "think" is wrong with the car then you come back with that crap fixed and you will pass in about 10 mins. Personally i have found stock rd pits the best but i know it doesnt really matter just luck of the draw.

cheers yeah thats it with the exhaust i think too, ie just get a silencer if too noisy...

I think personally they are gonna pull me for the tyre widths being differant, but i have printed off the official tommy kaira sales brochure with it saying on there the specs which mine is......

So hopefully he will read it and be ok with me......

Some of the specs.....

1. Tommykaira coilover suspension

2. Tommykaira wheels

3. Nismo lsd tt pro diff

4. Tommykaira carbon spoiler

5. Tommykaira bodykit

6. Tommykaira logo

7. Tommykaira seats

8. Tommykaira exhaust

9. Tommykaira gearknob

10. Tommykaira foot rest

11. Tommykaira front strut brace

12. Tomei racing fuel pump

13. Tomei 1.6mm headgasket

14. Tomei camshaft stage 2

15. Tommykaira piston

16. Tommykaira pulley

17. Tommykaira clutch

18. Tommykaira gauge cluster 300km and 10,000 rpm with A-LSD SLIP

Edited by FIRE BREATHER

When i took my skyline over the pits the mods were -

18x8.5F, 18x9.5R rims, they failed me on too little tread on the tyres, not the actual rim size

De-cat pipe - didnt have to do en IM240 emissions test and the IM240 was in well and truly at the time

Full turbo back exhaust - they did not do a DB test

FMIC with pod filter and blocked off factory BOV

Coilovers - my car was 105mm lowest point from the ground and they passed that.

I took my car to Welshpool pits, was easy to fix by chaning tyres when i got failed just for that lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...