Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi everyone, i would just like to know what are the turbo specs on a stock R34 GTT.

is it a good idea to keep the stock R34 turbo and replace the nylon wheel with a steel one?

i also have a Garret BB T28 suit SR20, 2000k no shaft play, how much should i sell it for?

thanks for your replies.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294072-r34-gtt-turbo-specs-request/
Share on other sites

if you are modding your car in the future, your stock turbo will only reach 200rwkw at the most and after that it will run out of puff...stock turbo is made out of ceramic, that means u can not boost it past 1bar otherwise u will find pieces of it stuck at your cat converter...

do some research . the nylon wheel is the compressor wheel .replacing it with a steel one will achieve nothing other than more lag

everything is only what worth someone is willing to pay for it

I've never been over impressed with high flows. I always preferred my R34 running high boost on a stock turbo with a good ECU and exhaust system. Depends on what you want though, response and medium power or a bit of lag and more power. If I did replace the turbo it would be a good HKS setup. My 2c

I've never been over impressed with high flows. I always preferred my R34 running high boost on a stock turbo with a good ECU and exhaust system. Depends on what you want though, response and medium power or a bit of lag and more power. If I did replace the turbo it would be a good HKS setup. My 2c

yeh, what i want is response and medium power, but just worried that turbo wont be able to handle boost, ok another stupid question, what is the max boost that should be run on the stock turbo?

thanks for the reply guys, i kno i have stupid questions, just new to the scene and trying to understand.

As myRB25DETT said; The consensus is that any more than 1-bar is risking destruction due to over-speeding the ceramic turbine, causing either separation from the steel shaft, or the blades to break.

(and bear in mind that 14psi @ the manifold is close to 17psi @ the compressor if you're still using the stock SMIC)

To double-clarify the construction of your snail: - nylon compressor, steel shaft, ceramic composite turbine.

I've heard that replacing the nylon compressor with an alloy one is a sensible thing to do as the nylon blades have a tendency to flex, and eventually break at raised boost levels.

So...

Keep the boost sensible, and the stock unit will last fine. If you want 'more' then an upgrade is desired (or be prepared to replace the stock unit every time you blow it up).

My 2.5c worth (the aussie dollar is pretty good right now...)

:thumbsup:

  • 4 months later...
As myRB25DETT said; The consensus is that any more than 1-bar is risking destruction due to over-speeding the ceramic turbine, causing either separation from the steel shaft, or the blades to break.

(and bear in mind that 14psi @ the manifold is close to 17psi @ the compressor if you're still using the stock SMIC)

To double-clarify the construction of your snail: - nylon compressor, steel shaft, ceramic composite turbine.

I've heard that replacing the nylon compressor with an alloy one is a sensible thing to do as the nylon blades have a tendency to flex, and eventually break at raised boost levels.

So...

Keep the boost sensible, and the stock unit will last fine. If you want 'more' then an upgrade is desired (or be prepared to replace the stock unit every time you blow it up).

My 2.5c worth (the aussie dollar is pretty good right now...)

:D

i was wondering how much the psi goes down if a front mount is installed... and if i got a side flowing blitz which bolt to were the side mount piping is, so no cross over the engine pipe, would the psi still be the same as a smic?... which would make it beta getting a front mount installed that crosses over the engine or connect to a front facing plenum.. anyone can help on this, nit sure what type of intercooler setup is beta..thanx so much

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...