Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I lowered our S2 RS Four S a few weeks back and i thought i might post up some pics and part numbers to save you guys the troubles if you are looking for some lowered springs.

I used lowered springs with the standard shocks and the car now looks as you see it below. it has actually settled just a little lower on the front than in that pic.

the King Spring part numbers i used were;

Front - KDFL-101SL

Rear - KDRL-102

Hope someone finds this useful

...Cheers Andy

BEFORE Sorry about the Blurry pic

IMG_0364.jpg

AFTER

IMG_0055-2.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294084-lowered-the-stagea-s2-rs-four-s/
Share on other sites

Looks good man... only thing its crying for is some bolt on wheel spacers to give you a more agressive offset then it would be mint!!

yeah spewing about the offset, but the wheels came with the car and my wife drives it most of the time anyway so a higher offset = less chance of gutter rash.

if spacers were legal i'd think about it.

dont know the spring rates but i am very happy with them, not too stiff, doesnt hit the bump stops, a comfortable ride, the car is daily driven by my wife and is planned to carry our kids when they come along, and it will be fine for that.

for the supply and fitting of three full sets of springs ( took them a while to get it right, ...fussy customers lol :( ) and a 4 wheel alignment set me back $600

All work was done at;

Wholesale Suspension

129 Coreen Ave Penrith

02 47212112

couldnt recommend them more highly, they spent days sourcing and trying different springs until they got it to the height i was after, and still only charged me the normal price. They also fitted the rear camber arms i supplied them with for $240 on a separate occasion.

The fronts should be the same, Michael, but the rears may be different because Andy's car is a factory manual.

i would assume they would be the same, only thing different between them is the auto having eye bottoms and the manuals having forks. other than that, same same

Using different springs is a low cost way of improving the look with a lower stance but it will have minimal effect on the handling. If this is taken into account a slightly more expensive option is to use Bilsteins (recond to save money) to lower the car on the standard springs while significantly improving handling.

What are the spring rates?

Have these springs in front of my s1 stag well the kDFL-101 (low) ones anyway because they have a higher spring rate than the super lows.

This may help people

standard stag front spring rate is 165lbs

standard rear springs rate 170lbs linear (not progressive like kings)

kings KDFL-101 front 180lbs super low fronts only have a spring rate of 140lbs this is to allow fore more compression as the super lows and lows spring lengh is exactly the same and the springs that are any shorter cant be used as they are not caged in the strut and will float around (not safe)

not 100% sure on those rear spring rates but I would presume they would be around 180lbs to 200lbs

another option for the rear may well be KDRL-87 200lbs spring rate (z32/300zx) tapered spring (88mm-77mm)

the king springs are available from auto pro for $150 per pair :/

summing up they do work but not 100% ideal because when lowering a 20 to 30% increase is more ideal stag front springs would actually be an upgrade for an a

R33/34

My question is ?? those R32 rear springs that were used are they tapered??? they must be otherwise they would rub! any idea of the taper?? ;)

My question is ?? those R32 rear springs that were used are they tapered??? they must be otherwise they would rub! any idea of the taper?? :/

I recently bought a set of Sydneykids bilsteins for the stagea. He no longer has any of the custom made springs he was selling and told me to buy the kings as they where the next best/closet match

I will be removing my rear r32 gtr kings springs tomorrow, so I can measure them for you.

I recently bought a set of Sydneykids bilsteins for the stagea. He no longer has any of the custom made springs he was selling and told me to buy the kings as they where the next best/closet match

I will be removing my rear r32 gtr kings springs tomorrow, so I can measure them for you.

did you end up selling your old pair? could always swap the springs over if you haven't

did you end up selling your old pair? could always swap the springs over if you haven't

I have someone lined up for the old shocks. New ones are on order with SK

I am keeping the springs for the new shocks :/

dont know the spring rates but i am very happy with them, not too stiff, doesnt hit the bump stops, a comfortable ride, the car is daily driven by my wife and is planned to carry our kids when they come along, and it will be fine for that.

for the supply and fitting of three full sets of springs ( took them a while to get it right, ...fussy customers lol :D ) and a 4 wheel alignment set me back $600

All work was done at;

Wholesale Suspension

129 Coreen Ave Penrith

02 47212112

couldnt recommend them more highly, they spent days sourcing and trying different springs until they got it to the height i was after, and still only charged me the normal price. They also fitted the rear camber arms i supplied them with for $240 on a separate occasion.

You'll have to come past and let me feel the ride, but sounds the goods....

But now i think i know what i want from santa this year teehehe! :P

I also just finally lowered my RS4-S - Went to BC Coilovers in the end

(I also have 1inch bolt-on spacers front and back)

BEFORE

post-54987-1256908977_thumb.jpg

AFTER

post-54987-1256908940_thumb.jpg

what is your wheel widths and offsets?

any scrubbing with the spacers fitted?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
    • Given what I know now - same haha, but this was 12 years ago with second hand 740cc Nismo injectors in my S15 daily, I was too busy hunting elsewhere for the issue to even look at the injectors, running through some cleaner was a happy coincidence haha
    • Not a terrible idea. But if I ever had concerns that my injectors were sufficiently dirty to be causing me a problem, they would be out of the engine and onto the actual injector cleaner/testing bench.
    • Run some injector cleaner through it I had a similar issue that plagued me for months, even tried replacing the cat. If one or more injectors are blocked up the ecu sees ping so pulls timing and makes the tune rich overall, you'll see black smoke coming out of the exhaust and like me assume it's running rich but it could only be one or two cylinders  $10 bottle of injector cleaner and the next time I hit boost it pumped out a huge plume of black smoke, cleared the blockage and then ran great, if that's not the issue it's only a cheap thing to try haha  
×
×
  • Create New...