Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR with 300 kw or Genuine R32 GTR N1  

55 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls

In a few weeks time i'll be looking at getting an R32 GTR. Im faced with a few choices here!

There are two plain 32 GTR's with aound 300kw at the wheels, clean, tidy, but possibly a defect magnet.

Or option two is a very clean and original R32 GTR N1 from IronChef. One of only 228 every made, never tracked, air con refitted and low Km's

These all work out to around the same price, but the N1 will only appreciate in value.

Looking for the pros and cons of picking either as i have never owned a GTR.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There are two plain 32 GTR's with around 300kw at the wheels

Ummm.... plain - with 300kw, yeah right!

the N1 will only appreciate in value.

Sure about that? Not saying it won't, but I wouldn't base buying a car on that. Have you got quotes for the insurance for both? Wouldn't think there'd be much difference but there could be.

I'd probably go the N1 as well if it has air-con, but would definately depend on condition and price.

You might be breaking Sled's heart here .... he has his eye on that N1 :D

Why would you want to get out of an increasingly more unreliable R33, only to go to a significantly more unreliable R32? Have you considered the maintenance and upkeep you would have to so on an R32? If you thought the R33 was bad for niggling age-related problems (like leaky hoses etc), then you are in for a whole world of hurt with an R32.

Also, I thoroughly disagree with the 'appreciate in value' comment - which Sled also said (and obviously Chef is pushing :P ). Only if you vacuum sealed and never drove it would it have any chance of appreciating in value imho. But that is just my opinion.

Save up some extra biscuit and buy an R34GTR James - in a completely different league to either of these ....

You might be breaking Sled's heart here .... he has his eye on that N1 :)

Why would you want to get out of an increasingly more unreliable R33, only to go to a significantly more unreliable R32? Have you considered the maintenance and upkeep you would have to so on an R32? If you thought the R33 was bad for niggling age-related problems (like leaky hoses etc), then you are in for a whole world of hurt with an R32.

Also, I thoroughly disagree with the 'appreciate in value' comment - which Sled also said (and obviously Chef is pushing :P ). Only if you vacuum sealed and never drove it would it have any chance of appreciating in value imho. But that is just my opinion.

Save up some extra biscuit and buy an R34GTR James - in a completely different league to either of these ....

Well to comment on both sides of the argument

with an N1 you're paying for pedigree and rarity. It'd make a superb track car base, way moreso than a stock gtr however, given the rarity, would you want to track it?

a 300 kw 32 has obviously had some coin thrown at it, but that said it could also have been thrashed

ultimately you will have to decide whether or not you want a street car or a track car. track car, or investment (given criteria) I'd go the N1, but if you want a street car, go the stock gtr. There are so many dickheads on the road, i know for a fact it will break your heart if you own an n1 and have someone crash into you and write it off. N1's are rare. GTR's arent. I'd never risk any N1 on the street, but thats just me....

People think I'm insane that I use my GTR as a daily. Thing is tho, I spend the same amount of coin as the hardcore gtr modders, the only difference is that I get to drive mine for several hours every day :D

-D

EDIT - And while I cant quite agree with pete (yet) the r32 gtr series are holding their value - they havent increased but they havent decreased for the last 2 years. we'll have to see what happens in the next few years as to whether or not they are becoming rare enough to increase in value. That said, I'm kinda keen to import broken R32 GTRs from japan so a bunch of us can cannibalise the parts from them.... if anyone is keen for this idea, pm me...

for aslong as 32 GTR owners advertise at a high price, the price WILL stay high.

Well thats true.

I've got a $25k GTR which I've spent $20k on over last 2 years

so I think that $35k would be what I'd sell my GTR for, if I was desperate.

Fark that.

They can take my GTR from me when the prise the keys from my cold dead hands.

I'll insure it for $35k tho ;P

-D

^ see, who cares what the redbook says, a cars $ value, equates its value to the owner.

sooner or later, all the beat up 32 R's will be in wrecking yards, only leaving prime quality,

in which owners will sell, at a high price.

how you can say an N1 will never appreciate in value in the decades to come is beyond me.

go the N1, 32gtr's are a dime a dozen, all pushing decent numbers. go check the fs thread on here or ns and you will find up to 10 or more with same power for less that $20k. the markets flooded, they no longer have the "omg a gtr" factor.

but on the other hand, a genuine N1 is rare as fuuuuuuuuck. would be a great weekend car, slowly restoring it to all its former glory (if indeed it needs it) and then sell it in 10 years when they are worth a mint

^ see, who cares what the redbook says, a cars $ value, equates its value to the owner.

sooner or later, all the beat up 32 R's will be in wrecking yards, only leaving prime quality,

in which owners will sell, at a high price.

how you can say an N1 will never appreciate in value in the decades to come is beyond me.

i never said it cant. you must have implied that yourself. matter of fact i said

'track car, or investment (given criteria) I'd go the N1'

so what the frak are u getting at?

-D

go the N1, 32gtr's are a dime a dozen, all pushing decent numbers. go check the fs thread on here or ns and you will find up to 10 or more with same power for less that $20k. the markets flooded, they no longer have the "omg a gtr" factor.

but on the other hand, a genuine N1 is rare as fuuuuuuuuck. would be a great weekend car, slowly restoring it to all its former glory (if indeed it needs it) and then sell it in 10 years when they are worth a mint

i cant agree with rhys

while 32s are more common, they are slowly getting whittled away

now the question is not which model to pick, its moreso which model is more practical for the goal of the owner

for a track car I personally would never use an N1 - nor would I drive one on the street

why? because its easy to remove parts from a stocker but impossible to replicate historic pedigree to a particular chassis

thats the downside of being a fanboy

dont get me wrong, I'd apply ALL the upgrades the n1 had, however I'd do it to a stock gtr, and i'd do it from the chassis up

Daily Road use vs Track/Tarmac Racing vs Drift vs Show car - loads of variables in all mechanical parts

Many goals and many tweaks. There is no way you can make a single car to fit all applications. Ever. Oh that is excluding those with big wallets who can afford a murcielago and drop another half a mil on upgrades - but hey even then it'll bottom out on an SA road which makes it totally impossible to drive to a fishing charter for example (even without cargo).

I loved the countach until I drove one last month. its a cop of a car. Thats about the sum of it. the way a car looks is not relevant to the way it handles...

-D

You might be breaking Sled's heart here .... he has his eye on that N1 :D

Why would you want to get out of an increasingly more unreliable R33, only to go to a significantly more unreliable R32? Have you considered the maintenance and upkeep you would have to so on an R32? If you thought the R33 was bad for niggling age-related problems (like leaky hoses etc), then you are in for a whole world of hurt with an R32.

Also, I thoroughly disagree with the 'appreciate in value' comment - which Sled also said (and obviously Chef is pushing :P ). Only if you vacuum sealed and never drove it would it have any chance of appreciating in value imho. But that is just my opinion.

Save up some extra biscuit and buy an R34GTR James - in a completely different league to either of these ....

James, it boils down to what you want out of a car.

If you want something modded that you can ocassionally track, then go a 32 GTR......you'll probably enjoy it more and are likely to find something that owes the owner $50K for 1/2 the price.

If however you do go the N1, you'd want to consider keeping it original (or in a state than can be returned to its original form), keep the kms down, and slowly restore it with original equipment......even certain Aussie cars have proven over decades that due to the lack of availability, they can return a hefty profit, moreso with the N1 that is recognized on the world stage and is already a cult car.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...