Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Skyline Light Up Tutorial

Doing this is at your OWN risk I take no responsibility for any damage or accidents which may occur throughout this tutorial, if you're unsure ASK, if you don't think you can do it DON'T

I made this tutorial back in June 09 in the General Maintenance section but I thought it might be more suited to this one, hope you guys like it

What You Will Need:

S1/1.5 Rear Skyline Garnish (This will NOT work on S2 as they are painted)

Dermal Tool (Rotary Tool)

Heavy Duty Dermal Cut Off Wheel

Dermal Sanding Band*

Rocker Switch* : If you want to turn it off and on

~ 14 High Intensity LED's ~$60+ from Jaycar or ~$20 from eBay, Check the light output rating

~6-14 Resistors: Pennies at Jaycar, You can use one resistor per LED or for every 2 (But if one burns out so will the other) Use THIS website to calculate the ohm's required for your array

Sheet of Experimenters Board: Try to get one that is long enough for the whole thing so you don't have to go through the hassle of putting them together

Some Wires: Try to get different colors for convince sake

Can of Paint: Match your color code (Recommend Autobarn Moorabbin, they can mix you up a can specific to your car and it's really useful for touch ups

Can of Lacquer*: Technically this isn't a must but it provides a nice shine & seal, also gives your that smooth feeling you have on your car

Painters Tape

Exacto Knife

th_1Garnish.jpgth_2Garnish.jpg

Alright we first start with your Skyline Garnish after taking it off of your car inspect i and make sure it's all nice and clean, you will notice some faded paint on the letters start by sanding them off to get the best light through

th_3RemoveTabs.jpg

Start by cutting the tabs off the back

th_4RemovePlastic.jpg

Now cut the entire plastic backing out, enough to expose all the letters; For my next project I'm going to try to cut a small hole instead and slide the entire board in but it's up to you

th_5RemovePlastic.jpgth_6RemovePlastic.jpg

This is what your Garnish should look like when you're finished

th_7SandEdges.jpg

You can sand down the edges if you really want to but in reality no one is going to see the back it's only for your own satisfaction

th_8PrepPaint.jpgth_9PrepPaint.jpg

Place painters tape across the lettering and run your fingers along the outside of the lettering it should tear the tape allowing you to just cover the individual letters

th_10Spray.jpgth_11Spray.jpg

After cleaning the Garnish again prep your area for painting (preferably outside) apply several even coats of paint (I did 5 if I recall correctly but it's based on how happy you are with it) allow at least 20 minutes between each coat (maybe less or more depending on the weather)

th_12Laquer.jpg

*REMOVE THE PAINTERS TAPE OFF THE LETTERING BEFORE APPLYING LACQUER* I forgot to remove the tape before applying the Lacquer which was a pretty stupid mistake and it ruins the finish, not by a lot but it's a lot of work to fix. After you completed your final coat allow drying for a few hours before applying Lacquer; this will seal the paint and give it a nice Glossy finish

th_13Finish.jpg

Admire your handy work before starting the hard bit

th_14LEDArray.jpg

Cut down your Experimenters board down to size measuring it up to the hole you cut in the Garnish

th_16LEDArrayBack.jpgth_15LEDArrayFront.jpg

I know this was an extremely crap soldering job; Solder all your LED's, Resistors and your wiring onto the board

th_17Wiring.jpg

Finally hook up the garnish to your car, wiring to a rocker switch if you want to be able to turn it on and off, as a precaution I wired this to my ACC wire so it can only turn on while the key is in

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294937-light-up-skyline-sign-tutorial/
Share on other sites

oh noooo... now everyone will be able to make one sad.gif

good tutorial though. By the way... i have done this with a few variations of LED boards and the more expensive one from jaycar is far the best.....

As an extra step... to disperse the light more evenly in the led tube, i sanded the front of it, worked pretty well....

If anyone does this.... they can't choose BLUE!

SNC00399.jpg

id wire it to my head and tail light accessories so it comes on when you turn your lights on at night (because the headlights and tail lights run off the same circuit if im not mistaken), have red LED's to match the tail lights, the only problem is when you brake it wouldnt go brighter but im sure theres a way around that, then hook a killswitch under the dash somewhere incase you dont want them on for some reason.

id wire it to my head and tail light accessories so it comes on when you turn your lights on at night (because the headlights and tail lights run off the same circuit if im not mistaken), have red LED's to match the tail lights, the only problem is when you brake it wouldnt go brighter but im sure theres a way around that, then hook a killswitch under the dash somewhere incase you dont want them on for some reason.

Just a note, my understanding is that aslong as you AREN'T using it as a brake light and its not too distracting (ie flashing,moving,etc) then it it acceptable.... otherwise they can pull u over...

Atleast that was wot I was told by the cop in VIC when i was pulled over for it, then he said it is ok.

  • 2 weeks later...

HAHAHA i have only just realised that the greeny blue led skyline garnish on the back of my car isnt standard. I just assumed they all had them but they rarely worked :P I have a Series two but with this mod done when i bought it. And on a side note i went for a cruise the other night around 3am when i couldnt sleep, undercover followed me along anzac parade and all the way down oxford street to george and wasnt worried enough by this light to pull me over, my understanding of the law is the same as WYTSKY, as long as intensity doesnt change on braking and doesnt flash or anything its legal.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I did mine in red and it comes on with the brake lights.

I've had cops behind me several times and so far so good.

Quite simple to do.

I did pretty much the same as JamesK.

I cut the plastic away with a 4 inch angle grinder.

I used clear contact paper.

Sanded it.

Covered it with the contact.

Trimmed around the letters with a craft knife.

Sprayed it with primer + black top coats.

Removed remaining contact off the letters.

Fitted a 300 mm led strip with double sided tape hard on to the back.

Looped an active/neutral off the brake light.

Blue looks awesome on the white car !

Nice work.

post-25026-1262848013_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772
  • 1 year later...
<br />So theres no way you can do this to a R32?<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Im about 90% sure it can be done.. A whole different process tho, and a lot more effing about. I might give it ago in the near future ;)

If im not mistaken the r32 coupe had a factory option "skyline" light up panel. Not many around but.

I was considering trying this on my r32 4 door but desided its too much effing around and cutting the letters into the actual bar :ermm:

color is the only issue legally. technically you can only have white of yellow up front. red or orange out the back. but i guess as long as its not too ridiculously bright and distracting you should be fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...