Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Because they don't crack through the drilled holes like the stock pieces of s%$t.

When I bought mine it had N1 front and rear discs, they were great, no cracking.

Bought some nissan stock drilled discs and 6 months later they were cracking!!

N1 FTMFW!!

Because they don't crack through the drilled holes like the stock pieces of s%$t.

When I bought mine it had N1 front and rear discs, they were great, no cracking.

Bought some nissan stock drilled discs and 6 months later they were cracking!!

N1 FTMFW!!

:-)

Thought it might be something like that, but surprised they didn't design something different along the lines of slotted/drilled but without the issues.

I need new front discs and the genuine N1's would be impossible to find so am thinking of just popping in a set of RDA/DBA non drilled/slotted as thats what the car should have. Only prob is I do a few track days a year and if the slotted/drilled are much better for track work, might go with them?

Slotted is OK for racing. Cross-drilled is not. If you have a look, few of the top-tier modern racing teams run drilled rotors.

Dominic Chen from Endless USA did a blog post ages ago. He took it offline due to perceived bias, but its been copied and posted here

Another demerit to the OE system is the fact that the rotors are cross-drilled. Putting aside the cross-drilled-rotors-have-a-tendency-to-crack debate, the issue with them is that they cool too quickly for track conditions. This is a fact that even Brembo themselves will tell you. With rotors that cool too quickly, you get erratic temperatures which cause rotors, both cross-drilled and slotted, to crack.

Also, the inability to maintain a good temperature means that you can potentially drop in and out of the ideal temperature range for whatever brake pad you’re using. The fact that the OE rotors are 2-piece floating allow for the rotor and bell housing to expand with heat, which is good, but the fact of the matter is that the surface of cross-drilled rotors is cooling too quickly.

Obtained my DBA fish-hook slotted rotors with curved vanes (the latter, to dissipate heat) from UAS.

...same as some of the SuperV8 teams as Alan alluded to.

Cross-drilling under high heat renders the disc to cracking at the site of the hole.

This is due to uneven rates of expansion as heat builds juxtaposed to fast contraction in between braking.

Any slots that go to the edge of the disc are also prone to cracking at high heat.

So slots that are contained 'within' the perimeter are better.

just grab the plain (non drilled or slotted) Bobby. That's exactly what i ran on the race car for years (from DBA) before they allowed us to go to 2 piece. they were fine (see avatar :thumbsup:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, also, forgot to add these photos I believe.
    • Thought i'd update on this. I was able to get in contact with Craig Lieberman and later on Darryl Alison (owner of Kaizo Industries). Darryl was able to help me verify that my car was in fact one of theirs and is helping me find more info on mine !
    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
×
×
  • Create New...